Van poederstrand tot paradijsvogel: Kei Kecil, Wakatobi en terug naar Papua

Dit wordt misschien wel onze laatste blog vanuit Papua. Voorlopig nog een beetje een schrikbarende gedachte, want na zes maanden voelt ‘nog een weekje’ wel erg raar. Gelukkig zijn sinds ruim een week de ouders van Loes hier. Zij leiden ons langzaam een beetje terug in de Nederlandse perikelen, kunnen we alvast wennen. Maar voordat we dat doen eerst nog een paar mooie verhalen, want we hebben deze maand namelijk heel wat afgereisd: we zijn naar paradijsjes Kei Kecil en Wakatobi geweest, Loes heeft met haar ouders de Baliemvallei in Wamena verkend en Paul is met een expeditie de jungle van Carstensz/Sugapa ingedoken. Geniet van een extra lange blog, en laat vooral je reactie achter (allen nog bedankt voor de reacties op de vorige blogs!).

Na ons tripje naar Papua Nieuw Guinea waren onze visa vernieuwd en konden we ongestoord tot eind juni in Indonesië blijven. En dat bleek net op tijd, want in die week ging eindelijk de kogel door de kerk: er was een datum voor Pauls expeditie naar Carstensz (8 juni) en dus genoeg tijd om ervóór nog naar de eilanden van Kei Kecil en Wakatobi te gaan. WWF-collega Indar had ons gevraagd om advies te geven over ecotoerisme, van strategie tot accomodaties en promotie. We reisden samen met Anissa, ex-WWF’er en nu startende met PT Sea, een aan WWF verbonden reisbureau voor ecotoerisme. Op dus naar een tropisch wit strand met palmbomen – niet klagen, gewoon doen.

Via Makassar reisden we eind mei naar Ambon op de Molukken, waar pas de volgende ochtend een kleiner propellorvliegtuig doorvloog naar Kei Kecil. Dan slaap je dus in een gemakkelijk zakenhotelletje, met TV! Zelfs een Indo slapstick soap is best leuk als je een paar maanden geen televisie hebt gekeken. De stad zelf, dat zijn vooral details. Een Chinees visrestaurant dat Pauls bestelling niet meer had en enkel Marloes wat serveerde. Toen we doorhadden dat zijn eten echt niet meer zou komen, moest hij ook nog flinke moeite doen voor wat bestek, zodat we Loes haar eten konden delen. Of het sportparkje waar vaders hun peuters in van die afstandsbestuurbare plastic auto’s rondreden. Net een gehoorzaamheidstraining bij honden, maar nu voor de telgen alvast in mini-SUV’s.

Tip: klik op het i-icoontje linksonder in de foto voor het bijschrift


Kei Kecil
Door naar Kei Kecil, een tropisch eiland in de Molukken, (nog niet) bekend van het zachtste witte poederstrand van de wereld. De gehele westkust ligt in een nieuw en beschermd Nationaal Park, dat naast veel koraal ook enkele eilandjes omspant. De meest bijzondere dieren zijn de enorme leatherback turtles die hier elk jaar in oktober kwallen komen eten. WWF is betrokken bij het park en de dorpjes die in en aan het park liggen. Los van dat die wat welvaart goed kunnen gebruiken, hoopt WWF kort gezegd dat de toeristeninkomsten onder andere het inperken van vissen met dynamiet én het stoppen met eten van de grote zeeschildpadden wat vergemakkelijken…

Wij werden opgewacht door een superenthousiast én wat jong team. Na de broodnodige basisinformatie te hebben verzameld zijn we natuurlijk even naar het strand van Pasir Panjang gegaan en inderdaad, het is alsof je met je voeten in een bloempapje staat, zó zacht :) . De dag erna moest er een boottocht gemaakt worden, want Anissa wil graag een pakketreis samenstellen en dat vereist testen. Dus wij in een speedboot naar de prachtige koraaleilandjes van ‘klein Raja Ampat’, verderop snorkelen, een jonge kokosnoot drinken, wat vis eten, pelikanen spotten en figureren in een reclamefilmpje van Garuda Indonesia airlines. Druk dagje. Dat we de ochtend erna met een groep heren met buik urenlang in een gemeentelijke vergaderzaal zaten slaan we even over, laat staan het 26 man sterke desondanks al heel lang verlaten ogende toerisme- en recreatiekantoor van de overheid, want die middag mochten we naar het derde dorpje, Ohoidertawun. Eerder kon even niet, want er werd gevochten… Na een superwarme tocht langs eeuwenoude rotstekeningen kregen we bij ’s eilands populairste homestay een verhelderend inzicht in de lokale politiek en sasi’s. Die laatste zijn traditionele verboden, oorspronkelijk ingesteld tegen bijvoorbeeld overbevissing, maar ze worden nu door velen voor persoonlijke winst of grief gebruikt. Het legt de boel dikwijls compleet lam: zo was er niet lang geleden door iemand (men verdenkt de eigenaar van de veerboot) zo’n geknakte palmtak bij de centrale brug die de hoofdstad in tweeën deelt geplaatst. Geen taxi of bus die meer die brug over durfde, en pas met een uitgebreid ritueel werd de vloek uiteindelijk opgeheven, hilarisch.

Na een laatste dag grotduiken, krab eten en prachtige zonsondergangen vlogen we weer via Ambon terug naar Makassar, waar we pas de volgende dag verder konden reizen. Wat doe je dan als je een middag de stad in gaat: je gaat naar Rotterdam! Oftewel Fort Rotterdam: mooie naam, beetje mindere setting, al was het alleen vanwege de tientallen studenten die hun Engels op je willen oefenen. De kleine scheepswerf ertegenover was interessanter. Daar werd met zogenaamd iron wood in een drietal maanden een traditioneel schip in elkaar getimmerd, dat straks als varende geschiedenisles langs de scholen op de eilanden gaat. En al moet je aardig klauteren, als ze vragen of je even binnen wilt komen kijken op het schip, dan doe je dat. Restte niets anders dan even afkoelen met een heus biertje op een dakterras. Dát was lang geleden!


Wakatobi
Door naar Wakatobi, oftewel de Tukangbesi-eilanden ten zuidwesten van Sulawesi. Het Wakatobi National Park is een acroniem van de vier grootste eilanden Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko. Het is een van de grootste marine parken van Indonesië en een populaire duikbestemming. Redelijk veel toeristen dus, die desondanks niet veel geld achterlaten in de vele kleine gemeenschappen. Tomia is al een heel eind met ecotoerisme, maar bijvoorbeeld Binongko begint net. Collega TiTin (v) van het lokale WWF-kantoor nam ons de eerste dag al mee naar een Bajo-gemeenschap, een wat meer gevestigde groep van deze zeegaande nomaden. De Bajo hadden – vanuit een nieuw ‘VVV’ paviljoen – een heel toeristenprogramma samengesteld, waaronder een dolfijnentocht. Wij de volgende ochtend mee met een bootje de zee op. Er is hier een hele traditie: dolfijnen en tonijn komen elke morgen in een gebied rond de kust op sardientjes jagen. De tonijnvissers volgen dan de dolfijnen met kleine bootjes waarbij ze een vislijn aan een vlieger achter zich aan trekken. Wij deden goed mee in de choreografie, en zelfs de dolfijnen maakten zo nu en dan sprongetjes.

Die middag gingen we met de boot door naar Kaledupa, waar een bewonersgroep een eigen reisbureau had opgezet en graag ons advies wilde voor de homestays en het programma. Met het lekkerste eten werden we onthaald om meteen daarna achterin een pick-up te springen voor een tourtje eiland. Dat nog niet alles soepel liep bleek toen we maar met moeite en bebloede voeten van de puntige rotsen een meertje konden vinden. Ook daar waren lokale regels, hier adats geheten. Of we wilden zwemmen vroegen ze, maar dan alleen met zwemvesten aan, want hoewel het soms niet meer dan een meter diep was mocht de bodem niet aangeraakt worden. Dan merk je weer dat in Indonesië zo vaak dingen niet makkelijk te regelen zijn, wat dan komt door iets waar je zelf nooit aan gedacht had.

Het is op Wakatobi het begin van het ‘wind-seizoen’ en als je dan met een lokale slow boat vijf uurtjes gaat varen, vergeet dan niet dat laag gaan liggen weliswaar minder schommelt, maar dat ook de locals wel eens zeeziek worden … Wát een reis! Een brommertaxi pikte ons op voor nog een uurtje hobbelen naar vast het meest afgelegen dorpje van onze reis. Na een welkom ontvangst en een overnachting in een guesthouse under construction gingen we de volgende ochted vroeg bij maanlicht – vink op de bucketlist – zeeschildpadjes vrijlaten! Het duurde even, maar ook die van Loes vond na veel aarzelen uiteindelijk de weg naar zee.

De oude naam van deze eilanden is Tukangbesi, oftewel smederij. Daar vind je op Binongko nog één dorpje van, waar ze uit oude stukken plaatstaal en bladveren machetes smeden. Natuurlijk moesten we even afkoelen in een mooie ‘zwemgrot’ voordat we aan de terugtocht begonnen. Want de slow boat kon door de harde wind niet meer varen, dus in een vergrote kano gingen we golven van vier à vijf meter op… en weer af… naar het eiland Tomia :) . Om na een kort bezoekje aan een zeer goed lopend ecotoerismeproject (met 67 homestays) en een overnachting de volgende dag stuiterend op de golven terug te varen naar hoofdeiland Wangi-Wangi. Gelukkig hebben we allebei een sterke maag…

Natuurlijk vlieg je dan nog een keertje via Makassar, waar we heel gastvrij werden opgewacht door Indar en haar familie. Anissa bleef achter in de stad voor een evenement de volgende dag en wij gingen ’s avonds terug naar Sentani. En dat was niets te vroeg, want een wasdag later moest Paul alweer door naar Nabire voor een expeditie naar het Carstensz-gebergte.


Carstensz, Sugapa – Paul
Het Lorentz Nationaal Park wil ecotoerisme vergroten op en rond de aanlooproutes van Carstensz Pyramid, één van de zeven grote ‘wereldbergen’ in het rijtje Everest en Kilimanjaro. Het plan om de westroute te verkennen lag er al een tijdje, en om zo mogelijk met de bewoners wat voorzieningen te creeëren zodat meer toeristen de zeer moeilijke tocht willen maken. Vanuit de Papuaanse overheid werd er weinig gepland of gecommuniceerd, maar het ging door, dus dinsdag 9 juni vlogen ik en WWF-collega Deddy naar Nabire. Het vliegtuig stonk naar ongeventileerde badkamer en midden op de nooddeur was met witte tape een groot gat afgeplakt, alsof iemand ‘m eerder uit alle macht open had willen trappen. Op het kantoor van Lorentz in Nabire (aan de westkust van Papua en +35°C) kregen we nog steeds minimale informatie, maar wel doodleuk te horen dat we vier dagen moesten wachten – iets met een fout vliegtuigje. Er zal wat zijn afgebeld, want plots hoorden we de volgende dag dat we de dag daarop vertrokken, en de bagage moest ‘nu’ worden gewogen. Er is iets ongemakkelijks aan, om in een half uurtje te moeten pakken voor een tocht waar je weinig over weet, en als alles inclusief jezelf op de weegschaal staat je te horen krijgt dat je al je spullen daar moet achterlaten.

Maar toch, op naar de bergen! De piloot was een Westerse, waar het goed mee klikte, die vol verhalen zat over schijtende varkens vervoeren tot vrienden die ergens daar rechts te hard geland waren. Wij gingen naar Sugapa, zo’n beetje de laatste landingsplek voor de jungle. We sliepen bij een ambtenaar, dat betekende kale vloer en door de hoogte ’s nachts heel koud. Volgde nog een dagje onderhandelen met porters: of ik wel of niet een toerist was bleek 3 miljoen Rp verschil te maken (ruim € 200,-), en de porters moesten als ‘donatie’ uit verschillende dorpjes gehuurd worden. Eindelijk konden we lopen! En drie uur later werden we teruggefloten door een heel dorp. Of we wel wisten wie ze waren, en dat ze ook een dure kerk hadden, dat iemand geen respect getoond had en zo nog wat. Gelukkig hadden we meerdere locals mee en ook enkele collega’s spraken de lokale taal. Na anderhalf uur geschreeuw en machete-gezwaai mochten we door, het zal vast wat gekost hebben… Uiteindelijk liepen we die dag in het donker en in de regen over hele lastige paadjes en boomstammetjes naar onze eerste overnachting, een ‘rookhut’ honai in Gamagai.

De volgende dag moesten we weer wachten: de rivier, zonder brug, bleek tot borsthoogte aangezwollen te zijn door de vele regen van die nacht. Maar nog minder goed nieuws was de verschijning van een tweede OPM-guerillagroep in de bergen op onze route. Van een eerdere, mildere groep van deze strijders voor Papuaanse onafhankelijkheid van Indonesië hadden we toestemming, maar deze groep kenden we niet. Een paar boodschappers werden uitgestuurd, maar zover ik begrepen heb is het niet gelukt om contact te maken. Ze schieten met scherp, dus geen risico: wij terug naar Sugapa. Om eerlijk te zijn, het was een beetje een teleurstelling. Zeker toen de details zich opstapelden; de volgende dag geen vliegtuig, het regen/drinkwater raakte op, ik kon niet zomaar naar buiten, slapen was lastig met die gasten, ik werd verkouden en een klein beetje moe. Tuurlijk, het was een avontuur en veel locals liepen niet alleen in koteka’s maar ook met pijl en boog rond, maar toch waren we blij toen we terugwaren.


Wamena – Marloes
Ondertussen waren mijn ouders geland in Sentani! Na een weekje Bali kwam eindelijk mijn vaders jongensdroom uit om Papua te bezoeken én hun beider droom om dit te doen terwijl Paul en ik er waren. Tijdens het herstel na zijn operatie heeft mijn vader steeds als doel voor ogen gehad dat hij mij hier wilde komen opzoeken, dus toen we elkaar na lang wachten eindelijk konden omhelzen op het vliegveld was dat best even emotioneel. Enthousiast als m’n ouders waren zijn we ‘s middags meteen naar Lake Sentani gereden om een paar dorpjes aan het water te bekijken. Met die mooie eerste indruk stapten we de volgende ochtend op het vliegtuig naar Wamena. Ook al was ik er met Paul al een keer geweest, het was toch weer erg bijzonder om in de Baliemvallei te zijn.

De mannen met koteka’s, de rondrennende varkens langs de weg en de honais overal gaven meteen al het andere wereld-gevoel. Onze gastheer en –vrouw Markus en Thea vertelden veel over de lokale Dani-cultuur, en Markus nam ons de dag erna mee naar een zoutwaterbron halverwege een berghelling. Wat voor mij een ontspannen wandeling was bleek met name voor m’n moeder toch wel een pittige klim, dus de voldoening was groot toen we na terugkomst heerlijk konden lunchen in de zon. Nog een klein stukje verder lopen en we waren bij een prachtige heilige grot, waar naast een blanke ook een zwarte Maria stond met kroeshaar en een noken, een tas die Danivrouwen op hun hoofd en rug dragen. Na het vele klimmen wilden we de dag erop een wat vlakkere wandeling doen. Dat werd een prachtige route langs de Baliemrivier, vol bloemen, vlinders en vogels, en hele vriendelijke locals die ons allemaal een hand gaven. We zijn nog wel hoger de bergen ingegaan, maar nu met de auto, een lekkere rammelbak waar de benzinetank een losse jerrycan onder het stuur was.

Het leuke was dat toen we terugkwamen in Sentani Paul hier al op ons zat te wachten, dus nu waren we compleet! Wat restte deze week waren een paar hele fijne dagen samen, met ondere andere het jaarlijkse dansfestival aan het Sentanimeer. Hoewel we vanwege het ontbreken van een programma ons een dag vergist bleken te hebben in de aankomst van de traditionele boten, konden we toch nog een paar mooie dansers zien, en was het een prima gelegenheid om wat souvenirs in te slaan. Natuurlijk konden we niet echt stilzitten, dus een programma van museum, de waterval in onze ‘achtertuin’ en hoofdstad Jayapura werd afgewerkt. Maandag was het zelfs om drie uur ’s nachts opstaan zodat we tegen vijven met vogelgids Jamil op zoek konden naar wel drie verschillende Birds of Paradise – die we ook nog hebben gevonden!

Inmiddels zijn Hans en Emmy terug naar Bali voor nog een weekje genieten. Wij bereiden ons langzaam voor op onze terugkeer naar Nederland, zeggen al dag tegen een paar collega’s en geven de hond nog een extra knuffel. Komende zaterdag vliegen we naar Jakarta, daar vertrekken we na een paar uur wachten ’s avonds om elf uur en dan landen we als het goed is zondagochtend half negen lokale tijd op Schiphol.

We hopen dat jullie genoten hebben van al onze verhalen en foto’s. We sluiten onze blog nog niet, maar we moeten nu wel afscheid nemen van Papua…. Waar we wat ons betreft zeker nog een keer terugkomen!

Laat nog even je reactie achter, vinden we leuk. Dank je alvast en tot snel!
Liefs, Paul en Marloes

4.328 Reacties

  1. Fantastisch! Mijn wensen reis lijst wordt steeds langer! Een goede reis terug!!

  2. Ik heb jullie reisblog vaak even gelezen in het halfuurtje dat ik s ochtends heb voor er een hongerige peuter naast mijn bed staat.
    Even meegenieten van tropische avonturen voordat de praktische werkelijkheid van de dag weer begint. Fijn dat Hans en Emmy konden komen. En dan straks weer terug…. Op Schiphol. Maar met een vollere rugzak dan op de heenreis, met nieuwe culturen en ervaringen. Groetjes uit NY!

  3. Heb er vandaag even goed de tijd voor genomen, zelfs nog en keer de andere blogs gelezen.., Wat heerlijk om in het eerste zonnetje na dagen regen deze verhalen te lezen. Wat een ervaringen… Past Paul wel in de afstandbestuurbare autootjes? Een stuk veiliger, moet hij hier ook hebben ;-)

    Jammer dat het al bijna voorbij is, op zich wel beter… Kan ik overdag weer concentreren op werk ipv weg te dromen bij de foto’s. Het zal een flinke overgang zijn, ben wel blij jullie weer te zien straks. Heb jullie gemist! Heel veel plezier nog deze week en zal zorgen dat er geen geknakte palmtak op de landingsbaan ligt.

  4. Sterkte met het afscheid en een hele goede reis terug naar Nederland. Het zal even wennen zijn, maar je collega’s zijn blij als je er weer bent in Zeist Marloes :-)
    Femke

  5. Pfoeh dat zijn nog eens volle laatste weken. Jullie hebben je echt geen moment hoeven te vervelen. Geniet van de laatste dagen, de tijd is omgevlogen!
    Maar ik vind het wel gezellig dat jullie weer terugkomen ook

    Tot snel ;)

  6. Ik ben er helemaal stil van.
    Wat hebben jullie weer fantastisch mooie dingen gezien en meegemaakt. Langzaamaan wennen om weer terug naar Nederland te komen, is inderdaad gek maar gelukkig kunnen jullie nog een paar dagen genieten

  7. Wat een avonturen weer, geweldig om te lezen! Die reis van Paul had ik niet zelf mee willen maken, iets teveel avontuur :-) . Superfijn dat de tijd met Loes dr ouders ook zo goed was. En hoewel ik me kan voorstellen dat jullie nog helemáál niet terugwillen naar NL, zeg ik: Papoea’s loss is our gain! Zin om jullie snel weer te zien! Big Xx vanaf t Bourgondische platteland

  8. Genoten heb ik zeker van jullie blog! En het was fantastisch om jullie daar op te zoeken :-) Ook erg leuk dat je ouders nog zijn langsgekomen Loes. Sterkte met afscheid nemen maar ik zie uit naar jullie terugkomst! En dan wil ik de verhalen natuurlijk nog een keer live horen :-) Xx

  9. Wat een bijzondere en intrigerende verhalen weer. Zo niet voor te stellen wat jullie beleven en hoe jullie wereld er daar uit zag/ziet. Daarnaast die prachtige foto’s erbij en je droomt echt even weg!
    Ik heb nog zoveel vragen die ik wil weten maar die kunnen we vast snel face to face bespreken :)

    Hoe dan ook: Ik zie jullie snel weer! Dat vind ik even het meest belangrijke en ik heb er zin in!
    Dikke kus en fijne reis!!

  10. En top dat pa en ma jullie kant op zijn gekomen! Ze hadden het er heel lang over en mooi dat het ze op dusdanig korte termijn is gelukt. Heel mooi om jullie allemaal te zien stralen.

    Het is gewoon zo dat de halve familie van Luijk op reis/vakantie is. Gelukkig zijn er nog een paar trouwe Vanluijkjes die het fort hier bewaken. ;)
    xx

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