Per bus, boot en brommer door Bali en Lombok

Het mooie van Indonesië is dat elk eiland weer totaal anders is dan het vorige. De overtocht van Java naar Bali duurt weliswaar maar 3 kwartier, en toch heb je het gevoel dat je de grens over bent gegaan naar een ander land. Moskeeën maken plaats voor tempels, overal dringt de zoetige geur van wierook je neus binnen en langs de straat moet je oppassen dat je niet bovenop een ‘offertje’ stapt. Ook de lokale taal (Balinees) klinkt weer heel anders dan Javaans. Én het eiland is een stukje toeristischer.

We begonnen onze reis door Bali in Pemuteran, een klein plaatsje aan de relatief rustige noordkust. Via het gebruikelijke toeval – ditmaal ons lunchtentje – vonden we vlak aan het strand een erg leuke homestay bij een familie, die ons elke ochtend een traditioneel Balinees ontbijt serveerde – sticky rice, poffertjes met kokos, vers fruit, hmmm. De man des huizes vertelde veel over de Balinese gewoonten en cultuur. Die maakten we op een avond zelf mee toen we op het geluid van een gamelan zijn afgegaan. Voor we het wisten waren we getuige van een geweldige bruiloftsdans van een man en een vrouw met een kris, een traditioneel zwaard. Van het vriendelijk aangeboden lokale brouwsel hebben we beleefd genipt, en verder vooral toegekeken hoe de Balinezen uit hun dak gingen op de opzwepende muziek.

In Pemuteran wilden we graag leren duiken, dus we hebben wat rondgevraagd bij een paar lokale duikscholen. Maar helaas helaas, Paul was en bleef te verkouden om de diepte in te kunnen gaan. Dat krijg je van al die nachtelijke vulkaantochten… Dus: change of plans. We zijn gaan snorkelen bij een zogenaamd bioreef, waar ze via kleine elektrische stroompjes aan koraalherstel doen – onze WWF-hartjes gingen er sneller van kloppen. Bij de zeeschildpaddenopvang vlakbij waren net de dag ervoor vijftig minischildpadjes uit hun ei gekropen – superschattig, ook hoe ze zo drijvend in slaap vielen. Vlakbij Pemuteran was zelfs een Nationaal Park, waar we een mooie wandeltocht maakten door een mangrovebos en het oerwoud. De gids wist de zeldzaam en erg schuwe Black Monkeys te vinden! En ook de enorme rode eekhoorns waren… enorm en rood. Omdat duiken er toch echt niet meer inzat hebben we onszelf de dag erna getrakteerd op een snorkeltocht per boot in hetzelfde natuurgebied, rond Pulau Menjangan. Als je al die bootjes in het haventje ziet liggen ben je blij dat je in het laagseizoen zit, maar je begrijpt de populariteit als je eenmaal boven het prachtige koraal dobbert. En al die duizenden vissen! Helaas bleek de zonnebrandcrème alleen niet geheel waterproof. Of: geheel niet, gezien de kreeftrode achterkant van Loes haar bovenbenen. Zitten werd een uitdaging, minstens een week lang.

Tip: klik op de i linksonder voor bijschriften bij de foto’s.

We reisden door naar Ubud, meer naar het zuiden van Bali. Een hele mooie stad, volgepakt met tempeltjes, leuke galeries en eettentjes, en natuurlijk het beroemde Monkey Forest waar je midden tussen de apen loopt. De devotie van de Balinezen was indrukwekkend, je struikelde soms letterlijk over de ‘offertjes’. Ook voor onze kamer werd rijst op een bananenblad gelegd en wierook aangestoken. Rondom Ubud liggen prachtige groene rijstvelden waar we tussendoor wandelden, om vervolgens met een drankje op een veranda de zon te zien zakken… Ja, reizen is afzien:).
Maar hoe mooi ook, al die grote tempels en groene velden, wat ons bleef trekken was -alweer- een vulkaan. Dus we zijn, weer middenin de nacht, de Gunung Agung opgegaan, Bali’s heiligste berg. Het was aardedonker dit keer, met enorm veel sterren, uitzicht op de lichtjes van zuid-Bali en soms een flits van onweer ver weg. De klim was best pittig, we zijn allebei ook een keertje uitgegleden, maar eenmaal boven was het uitzicht geweldig. Bovenop de top kwam de zon op, en we zagen de schaduw van de Agung over Bali glijden. Om het gelukzalige gevoel af te toppen had de gids van een ander groepje ook nog warme koffie meegebracht!

Ubud was mooi, maar ook vrij westers en met veel toeristen. En hoewel het stadje op elke straathoek een studio voor yoga, reiki en klankschaaltherapie heeft hadden wij wat moeite om een plek te vinden die eigen voelde. Misschien ook omdat we wat rusteloos waren over wat we hierna wilden doen. Het was nog maar de vraag of er terug op Papua genoeg werk zou zijn voor Paul, en zo niet, wat wilden we dán doen? Reizen vinden we geweldig, maar na een paar weken begint de reismoeheid wat toe te slaan. Dan is vrijwilligerswerk en wat langer op één plek blijven ideaal om even bij te tanken en vooral om de cultuur echt te leren kennen. Dus we zijn gaan mailen en bellen, en al snel dienden zich enkele leuke WWF-projecten aan, ook met wat hulp van WNF-collega Hans, voor de periode mei en juni.

Opgewekt vervolgden we onze reis, door naar het eiland Lombok. We boekten de fast boat vanaf Ubud, maar omdat de ‘laatste’ boot vol zat werden we naar een extra boot gezet. Die bleek niet naar de afgesproken haven op Lombok te gaan, maar via de toeristische Gili-eilandjes naar een schimmige steiger twintig km verderop, en natuurlijk staan daar dan een paar auto’s te wachten om je voor nog eens hetzelfde bedrag het laatste stukje naar je hotel te brengen. Beetje balen, maar ach. Onze homestay in het plaatsje Senggigi was in elk geval een mooie plek, vooral met de tuinman konden we in ons beste Indonesisch leuke gesprekjes voeren. Hij nam Loes en een stel Duitsers ‘s middags mee voor een mooie wandeling in de heuvels rondom het dorp – Paul bedankte vriendelijk, want die had nog teveel spierpijn van ons laatste vulkaanavontuurtje… (commentaar van Loes is verwijderd – red. ;) )

De dag erna huurden we een brommer voor een paar dagen en reden we naar het kustplaatsje Kuta (vooral niet te verwarren met Kuta op Bali!). Er hing een relaxed sfeertje, met veel gebruinde Australische surfers en van die voeten-in-het-zand-tentjes waar je bij ondergaande zon een biertje kon drinken. Ook rondom Kuta is het prachtig, je kunt zo een wit strandje oprijden voor een frisse duik in de turquoise-blauwe zee. Borden plaatsen langs de weg was alleen net iets teveel gevraagd, waardoor we aan het eind van de dag ongepland opnieuw in Kuta uitkwamen. Vooruit dan, nog maar een keer een biertje bij zonsondergang.
Dag 3 reden we richting bergen, waar we een homestay vonden in een idyllisch dorpje, echt bij mensen thuis. Onze gastheer deelde meteen z’n aangrijpende levensverhaal (en later op de avond vertelde hij versie 2), het eten was heerlijk, en onze kamer had een prachtig uitzicht op de rijstvelden en op Lomboks grote vulkaan, Gunung Rinjani. We konden helaas maar één nacht blijven, maar natuurlijk was er tijd voor een flinke wandeling door de rijstvelden en -terrassen, met als hoogtepunt een bijzondere grot met een waterval achterin. Je kon er alleen komen via een steil en glibberig paadje, en volgens de man was dit een plek waar de lokale bevolking, allemaal zeer devote moslims, witte én zwarte magie beoefenden. Fascinerend dat die twee ogenschijnlijk tegengestelde geloven toch zo goed samengaan… En volgens hem waren we ook nog eens de eerste bule (witte mensen) in deze grot.

Terug in Senggigi maakten we ons op voor weer een avontuur: Gunung Rinjani. Deze enorme vulkaan, dé landmark van Lombok en één na hoogste van Indonesië, kun je alleen met een driedaagse tocht beklimmen. We twijfelden nog of het wel zou lukken op onze hardloopgympjes (want die zware bergschoenen hadden we natuurlijk in Sentani gelaten, helaas helaas). Maar we wilden het gewoon doen, dus we zijn gegaan.

’s Ochtends rond vieren werden we afgehaald, voor een uren durende slingertocht naar de berg. Na een broodnodige pannenkoek en een bezoek aan het natuurpark-kantoortje voor een permit werd er rond 10 uur eindelijk gestart met lopen! En… drie uurtjes wandelen en uren wachten later alweer gestopt vanwege de regen. En niet zo’n beetje regen, paden werden vijvers en je kon je voorganger 10 meter verderop nog net in de wolken zien verdwijnen. Ook was een nieuwe porter zijn poncho vergeten, lastig lastig. Geen nood, die uurtjes haal je de volgende dag gewoon weer in. Wij dus om twaalf uur ’s nachts opgestaan voor een frisse klauterpartij naar 3700+ meter hoogte. Het was grotendeels droog, gelukkig, alhoewel we door de harde wind soms bijna van de richel werden geblazen. Maar we hebben het gehaald, en in een goed tempo ook! Snel wat foto’s nemen op de ijskoude top en weer rechtsomkeert. Terug beneden op de kraterrand kregen we ontbijt en na een korte pauze liepen we door naar het beroemde kratermeer. Na een kleine 13 uur klimmen en afdalen konden we daar eindelijk onze vermoeide voetjes in de heetwaterbronnen weken. Vervolgens liepen we dag 3 na nog zo’n goeie nacht met nu en dan knetterend onweer weer omhoog naar de kraterrand en door de jungle terug naar het dorpje. We kwamen in het donker aan en waren pas rond acht uur terug in Senggigi. Het was een slopende tocht, maar het is ons wel weer gelukt! Moe en heel voldaan vielen we in bed in het guesthouse. Daar wachtte ons de volgende dag alleen een kleine verrassing, want iemand had de portemonnee van Loes leeggeroofd, terwijl haar tas lag opgeslagen in het huis van de eigenaar. Gelukkig schrok die er zelf ook van, want na een telefoontje heeft ze het hele bedrag naar ons teruggestort. Mooi opgelost!

De volgende dag zijn we vanuit Lombok terug naar Bali gevaren, nu eens met de slow boat. En hier is dat dus echt ‘slow’! Na een hele dag reizen, inclusief ruige golven en de bijbehorende kotszakjes van medepassagiers, kwamen we eindelijk aan in Denpasar, de hoofdstad van Bali. De volgende ochtend ontmoetten we Indar, een WWF-collega, voor een veelbelovend ecotoerismeproject. Grote kans dat we deze maand nog een paar eilandbezoekjes gaan afleggen:). Voordat we die avond terugvlogen naar Papua waren we eerst nog zo gek om in de bloedhitte kilometers naar het strand te gaan fietsen. Soms vergeet je even dat er een reden is waarom iedereen hier auto- of motorrijdt…

Inmiddels zijn we dus terug in Papua, druk aan de slag. We hebben tripjes gemaakt naar verre strandjes en zelfs naar Papua Nieuw Guinea! Maar dat vertellen we de volgende keer;).

Dankjewel voor het lezen en voor alle leuke en mooie reacties op onze vorige post! We horen graag weer van jullie! Liefs!

4.054 Reacties

  1. Super mooie foto’s en waanzinnige verhalen. Wat een belevenis voor jullie zeg.

  2. Hoe afzien en enorm genieten kan samengaan! Oh wat mooi allemaal weer. Zorgen jullie wel dat jullie een beeeetje uitgerust terug komen? Beetje maar hoor!
    Liefs,
    LL

  3. Weer heerlijk om te lezen! Ben toch wel benieuwd naar het commentaar van Marloes dat is verwijderd En de vlg keer meer over Mr. Wasa? ;-) Geniet lekker en af en toe lekker niks doen is ook lekker. Xx

  4. Zo, weer even reality check na heerlijk ondergedompeld te zijn geweest in jullie prachtige verhalen. Wat een avonturen! En wat heerlijk om ze zo allemaal mee te maken in woord en beeld! Enne, duidelijk geval van vulkanenfetisj bij jullie ;-) Verheug me alweer op jullie volgende blog! Geniet, geniet en keep us posted! Lfs, Maja

  5. Heerlijk om jullie avonturen weer te lezen. Hoe nietig tegenslagen dan eigenlijk zijn als je ziet wat er voor mooie dingen wél kunnen. Veel plezier bij het eco project, ben benieuwd naar jullie bevindingen!

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