Van wolkenkrabbers in Singapore naar vulkaantoppen op Java

Nee, we maken geen excuses voor deze verlate post, het was afgelopen weken gewoon erg druk en veels te leuk voor een dagje internetten (als dat er al was;-)). We hebben dus nogal wat te vertellen. Voor het gemak hebben we het maar even opgesplitst in Singapore en Java, met een mooie post over Bali en Lombok in het verschiet. Veel plezier en laat vooral onder je reactie achter, altijd leuk om te lezen (we zitten inmiddels al zo lang in het buitenland dat we iedereen een beetje beginnen te missen).

Na ons bijzondere avontuur in Wamena hadden we nog één week in Sentani, voordat we het land uitmoesten om ons visum te verlengen. Na wat uitzoekwerk bleek Singapore daarvoor de handigste optie, dus op zondag 30 maart vlogen we na 2 maanden Papua richting Jakarta. Maar Indonesië blijft Indonesië: we bleken een tussenstop te hebben in Makassar op Sulawesi waarbij we het vliegtuig uitmoesten, waarna onze vlucht vervolgens op geen enkel bord meer te bekennen was. Waarom was onduidelijk, maar we moesten een paar uurtjes wachten. Met als gevolg dat we onze aansluiting in Jakarta misten. Wij konden gelukkig nog wel op een volgende vlucht naar Singapore worden geboekt, maar onze bagage kon dat allemaal niet bijbenen. De eerste dag in de stad hebben we dus in ons vliegtuigkloffie rondgelopen – het stak wat schamel af bij alle designerjurkjes en dure pakken. Wat een enorme overgang! We waren terug in de Westerse wereld met cafe lattes, kunstgaleries, sushibars, moderne architectuur en vooral veel, heel veel dure kledingwinkels. Het verschil met onze koteka-dragende chief in de Papuaanse bergen had niet groter kunnen zijn…

(Klik op het i-icoontje linksonder op de foto’s voor titels en beschrijvingen)


Toch vonden we Singapore een leuke stad, waar de rokerige oude tempels in Chinatown mooi combineerden met de kunstig aangelegde supertrees, die ‘s avonds een weliswaar kitcherige maar toch erg mooie lichtshow gaven op muziek. Van exposities met design, een audiotour langs de kunstwerken in het enorme posh RitzCarlton-hotel tot ‘s ochtends vroeg een rondje rennen over de boulevard, en van lokaal gebrouwen (Weizen!)biertjes drinken op een terras in een overgebleven oud stukje stad tot hopeloos zoeken naar de uitgang in alweer een te luxe shopping mall: we zijn even helemaal ondergedompeld in het stadse leven. En dat was na vier dagen ook wel echt genoeg. Zeker wat alle regeltjes betreft in Singapore: wij Nederlanders kunnen er wat van, maar hier kreeg je een boete van 500 dollar als je alleen al een papiertje op straat gooide en hing de metro vol met betuttelende teksten over wat voor een goed en lief persoon jij wel niet zou zijn als je opstond voor een bejaarde. Volgens een oudere man waar we een middag lang mee hebben zitten kletsen was er nauwelijks criminaliteit vanwege de camera’s. Overal. Klinkt misschien utopisch, maar voor ons voelde het nét wat te aangeharkt allemaal.

Zodra we een paar dagen later landden op het kleine vliegveld van Yokyakarta (Yogya) hadden we vrijwel meteen weer een thuisgevoel. De chaos met taxichauffeurs die je met z’n vieren tegelijk mee willen nemen, de geur van gefrituurde hapjes en sterk schoonmaakmiddel doorelkaar, de klamme hitte – heerlijk om weer terug te zijn in Indonesië:-). We namen de trein de stad in en zaten een paar uur later heerlijk aan de gegrillde vis in een warung tegenover ons hostel. Yokya zag er meteen al veelbelovend uit, hier konden we ons vast wel een paar dagen vermaken. Het slapen was in ieder geval al een hele verbetering, we zaten in een inmense suite in wat een oude ambassade leek. Alleen al de badkamer was twee keer onze raamloze Singaporese bezemkast.

Een van de belangrijkste dingen die we wilden zien was de beroemde Borobudur, Indonesië’s grootste boedhistische tempel. Marloes had al sinds haar 16e plaatjes in haar hoofd van het bouwwerk, dus de verwachtingen waren hooggespannen. Allereerst zouden we de Borobodur bij zonsopkomst vanaf een berghelling bekijken, waarvoor we om 3 uur ‘s nachts van ons bed gelicht werden. Toch best jammer als het dan enorm mistig blijkt te zijn… Dus maar door naar de tempel zelf, waar we al niet meer de eerste waren. Drommen schoolklassen en groepen studenten zwermden rondom de buddha’s, en leken vaak nog meer aandacht te hebben voor ons. Regelmatig werden we gevraagd om een ‘interview’ waarbij studenten een spervuur aan vragen voor je hebben, voor hun Engelse les. Ook wilden hele groepen met ons op de foto, van een vader die zijn kinderen in Loes’ richting duwde en haar vroeg of ze ze alsjeblieft wilde knuffelen voor de foto, tot Paul die op een gegeven moment boven een groep van 40 kinderen uittorende, waarvan sommigen zelfs zijn hand begonnen te kussen. Niet helemaal wat we ons van de Borobudur hadden voorgesteld, maar wel bijzonder. De trip vervolgde naar de Prambanan, een eveneens oude maar hindoeïstische tempel. Daar oefenden de aanwezige studenten naast hun Engels ook meteen wat handige praktische vaardigheden. Je bloeddruk laten meten naast een Shiva-tempel, waarom ook niet?


In Yogya zelf is ook veel geschiedenis te vinden. Naast de nodige oud-Hollandse bouwwerken zoals het fort Vredeburg zijn er mooie paleizen. De stad wordt al eeuwenlang bestuurd door een sultan, die er middenin woont in zijn paleis, met daaromheen een speciale wijk voor al zijn personeel, de kraton. Leuk om door de smalle straatjes te lopen en dan ineens een tentje tegen te komen waar ze Loewak-koffie hebben, die hele beroemde koffie van bonen die door civetkatten zijn, jawel, uitgepoept. Omdat wij Nederlanders vroeger zo aardig waren tegen de arbeiders op onze koffieplantages en we ze verboden om plantagebonen te gebruiken, maakten ze als alternatief koffie van kattenpoep. En eerlijk is eerlijk, het smaakt erg lekker.

And then something completely different: een vulkaan beklimmen. De Merapi ligt niet ver van Yogya en lonkte al een tijdje naar ons. Aangezien je die zoals bij veel vulkanen wordt gedaan het beste tijdens zonsopkomst kunt beklimmen, reden we ‘s avonds om half 11 weg uit ons hotel en liepen we om 1 uur ‘s nachts achter onze gids aan het dorpje uit, de berg op. Zaklampen waren nauwelijks nodig, want de bijna volle maan bescheen ons pad. Omdat we relatief snel waren hebben we nog een tijd gerust bij een schuilplaats, want wachten in de ijskoude wind op de top is geen goed idee. We klommen hoger en zagen de zwarte top al in het maanlicht voor ons opdoemen, met her en der een paar lichtjes van andere klimmers. Je voelde het kouder worden, en de berg werd ook steeds steiler. Terwijl we soms met handen en voeten omhoog moesten werd de hemel langzaam minder zwart. Het laatste stuk was het al licht, en toen we eindelijk de top bereikten was de zon net op. De wind was koud, maar het gevoel geweldig. Het had echt iets magisch om zo hoog over de ontwakende wereld uit te kijken.


Na die zware maar geweldige tocht reisden we met de trein door naar Solo, ook een mooie oude stad. Het paleis was misschien wat minder groots, het rondfietsen door de stad en dorpjes eromheen met onze gids was super. We bekeken bijvoorbeeld een ‘fabriek’ waar ze rijstcrackers maakten, gesneden uit gekookt rijstmeel, dan drogen in de zon en vervolgens frituren. Na het zien van de kippen die over de drogende lapjes heenliepen, de vloer die wel een sopje kon gebruiken en de frituurpan met ruwe aardolie smaakten de ons vriendelijk aangeboden crackers toch wat minder lekker. Ook in de broodfabriek erna hadden ze nog nooit van HACCP gehoord. En met je blote voeten naast een gloeiend stuk plaatstaal staan en daar dan omstebeurt met grote hamers op inslaan, in de verstikkende rook – gamelans (Indonesisch muziekinstrument) maken is geen kantoorbaantje.

Hoeveel er ook te zien was in de stad, de bergen bleven lonken. Met name de beroemde Bromovulkaan. Dus we kochten een treinkaartje en boemelden de volgende dag door de rijstvelden naar een plaatsje vlakbij de Bromo. Ons plan was om er zelf overdag naartoe te gaan, zonder alle toeristengroepen. Maar die gids die het hotel voorstelde wilden we best even aanhoren… Gevolg: twee vulkanen in twee dagen geboekt, inclusief de ferry naar Bali. Soms zijn tours toch wel handig, het scheelt in elk geval veel tijd en geregel. Dus die nacht werden we om 2 uur opgehaald om de zonsopkomst van de Bromovulkaan te zien. Iets minder sportief, maar wel makkelijk, werden we met een jeep naar boven gereden. Daar aangekomen stonden er tientallen langs de weg geparkeerd. Toch, alle hordes mensen ten spijt, het was prachtig. Vervolgens zijn we beneden in de kilometer grote caldera nog de vulkaan zelf opgegaan. De desolate zandvlakte, de paarden en gebronste gezichten van de locals gaven echt het gevoel alsof je ergens in Tibet was beland, magisch.


Na een snelle opfrisbeurt reden we door naar vulkaan #2, Ijen geheten. We mochten een paar uurtjes slapen in het utopische Arabika, een coöperatief dorpje annex koffieplantage, met een eigen guesthouse. Ook hier vertrokken we middenin de nacht richting de berg, voor een 2 uur durende wandeling omhoog richting de kraterrand. De happy few die nog niet misselijk waren van de rotte ei-lucht, mochten dat beneden in de krater worden. De wind stond goed, dus wij naar beneden, waar uit stoompijpen vloeibare zwavel druipt. Uit een aantal stroomt ook brandbaar gas, en die blauwe vlammen is toch waar Ijen zo beroemd om is. Sta je met tien man beneden, draait de wind, en dan moet je ineens hoestend van de zwavellucht een kraterwand oprennen… Nog dagen zat die lucht in onze kleren. Maar toch, het kan erger: tussen de rijke toeristen door probeerde een handvol mijnwerkers hun weg te vinden. Voor de ruim tachtig kilo zwavel die ze op hun misvormde schouder torsen krijgen ze maar een paar euro. Best een tragisch contrast… gelukkig was een flink aantal uiteindelijk gids geworden.

Verkouden en met een beetje spierpijn werden we na Ijen direct op de boot naar Bali gezet. We kregen de vijftig cent overtocht cadeau, maar moesten wel even een extra buskaartje kopen. Zaken lopen hier altijd net even anders :-) .
Bali is echt een hele andere wereld, al is het alleen maar vanwege de duizenden tempels. Maar daarover meer in onze volgende blog.

Vergeet niet een reactie te plaatsen, die waren weer erg leuk de afgelopen keer, dankjewel!

Liefs, Paul en Marloes

3.601 Reacties

  1. Hee loes en paul,

    Wat een prachtige foto’s en wat leuk om zo jullie belevenissen te lezen. De Bromo vulkaan ziet er ook echt prachtig uit. Volgens mij dompelen jullie je met het grootste gemak in verschillende werelden onder. Maar dat jullie het echte backpacken verkiezen boven het westerse singapore vind ik wel mooi haha :D En wat vonden jullie van de Loewak koffie? Inderdaad de beste koffie ter wereld of zat er toch een luchtje aan?

    Liefs,
    Anna

  2. Hi avonturiers,
    wat een ongelofelijk schitterende foto’s van de Bromo!! Wat een surrealistisch landschap! Weer hartstikke leuk en boeiend om jullie verhalen te lezen gelardeerd met die prachtige foto’s. Ga zo door. Ik geniet volop met jullie mee!
    Dikke knuffel,
    Pa/Hans

  3. Hallo lieverds

    Wat mooi! Ik heb alles met veel plezier gelezen.En wat hebben jullie toch al veel ondernomen.Het is maar goed om alles vast te leggen.De foto’s zijn prachtig en scherp(daar let ik natuurlijk op). En die Loewakkoffie is misschien wel lekker maar de katten zitten in kooien opgesloten en dat ziet er niet goed uit.
    En jullie zien er heel gelukkig uit.Nou geniet samen en heel veel sukses op Nieuw Guinea.
    Dikke knuffel mam Emmy

  4. Heerlijk om even met jullie mee te reizen… Vanachter mn computertje, aan het werk, maar stiekem toch ook in Indonesie, doordat jullie het zo mooi (en herkenbaar) beschrijven. X!

  5. Hoi Paul en Loes,
    Wat een mooie avonturen beleven jullie daar. En het is heerlijk om hier in – het dan toch best wel gebalanceerde NL – even in gedachten met jullie mee te kunnen genieten. Door jullie verhalen wordt mijn ‘bucketlist’ in ieder geval steeds langer :)
    Geniet, geniet, geniet!
    Xxx Sabine

  6. Hoi Globetrotters, man man, wat een verhalen, wat een belevenissen, mooi hoor om met jullie mee te reizen! heel veel plezier, en we zien uit naar jullie volgende verhaal.!! liefs Hans en Ina.

  7. Wat heerlijk om te lezen. Wat geweldig wat jullie zien en meemaken. Stikjaloers! En wat Ellen al zegt; brings back good memories. Het wordt tijd dat jullie naar huis komen, we missen jullie hier ook :) Geniet!!! Liefs Xx

  8. Wat een mooie verhalen weer. Heel herkenbaar over Singapore en Java, ook al is het voor mij 20 jaar geleden dat ik daar was. Veel plezier in Bali. En ja, we beginnen je wel te missen hier hoor Marloes, gisteren in de Antilope viel je naam nog;-)

  9. Lieve Loes en Paul,

    Wederom geweldig om al jullie belevenissen te lezen. En supermooie foto’s! Blijf genieten van alle mooie dingen die jullie zien en meemaken.

    Liefs, Ursula

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