Weg van de wereld in Wamena

We zijn terug uit Wamena en het was fantastisch! Weinig plekken op de wereld zijn het echt, maar de Baliemvallei kun je toch wel als last frontier bestempelen. Alles heeft echt dat ‘beschaving gaat tot hier en niet verder’ gevoel, van de 4×4 wagens, de gek die met een metalen pijp de landingsbaan op rent, tot een WWF-collega die zich een tijd terug ziekmeldde omdat er tijdens een stammengevecht een pijl in zijn been was geschoten.

Maar het was niet zomaar een vakantie, het eerste weekend was een heus werkbezoek. We moesten het kantoor, de community-projecten en het Lorentz National Park leren kennen om daar vervolgens een aantal middelen voor te maken. Met collega Andhiani van communicatie hier in Sentani zijn we vrijdag naar Wamena gevlogen. We werden verwelkomd door Theodora, hoofd van WWF Lorentz die ons meteen meenam naar het kantoor. WWF Lorentz is op zich redelijk klein, met 3 vaste medewerkers en 2 vrijwilligers, en houdt zich voornamelijk bezig met één van de grootste nationale parken van Indonesië, het Lorentz National Park, ter grootte van half Nederland! Het is niet alleen een inmens groot, maar ook een beetje een ongebruikelijk park: het loopt van bijna 5 kilometer hoge bergen tot aan de kust, valt onder tien districten met elk hun eigen beleid, een aantal dorpen in het park weet nog niet van het bestaan daarvan (of de ‘wereld’) en last but not least heeft de overheid zelf nog niet eens de grenzen bepaald. In hun eigen woorden: progress is réally slow.

Natuurlijk zat ook een bezoekje aan het kantoor van het Lorentz National Park zelf in het programma. We werden ontvangen in een wat vervallen kantoor, zonder ook maar een papiertje op de tafels. Vier jongens achter hun laptop waren een beetje afwachtend en verrast door onze komst, maar later (de volgende dag gingen ze mee naar het Habema-meer) bleken het vrolijke en gedreven biologen en specialisten te zijn. ‘s Middags brachten we nog een bezoekje aan één van de gemeenschapsontwikkelingsprojecten. ‘Pa’ Anton teelt koffie en houdt honingbijen, waar WWF hem bij helpt, met de hoop dat goed voorbeeld doet volgen. Na een hartelijk onthaal door een hele mik kinderen zaten we in no time met z’n allen op de vloer in de hut naar zijn verhaal te luisteren. Na afloop kregen we nog even de bijen te zien, en zochten we snel een veilig heenkomen toen Pa Anton zonder angst met enig geweld een honingraat vol bijen weer op zijn plek in de kast aan het slaan was.


[Tip: Klik op het i-symbool linksonder op de foto's voor titels en bijschriften]

Over de Baliemvallei en waarom die dan zo beroemd is: de vallei ligt precies in het midden van West Papua (16 x 60 km vlak land met een rivier), ingeklemd tussen hoge bergen en honderden kilometers jungle rondom. Tot ca 1813 was het een meer, maar na een aardverschuiving liep dat leeg en trokken omliggende berg- en junglestammen de vruchtbare vallei binnen. Het ‘westen’ ontdekte dit strookje land tussen de bergen pas in 1938 en begon nog later in 1954 met een missionarispost en -schooltje echt zijn ‘beschaving’ uit te strooien. Tot die tijd leefden de stammen – met 3 talen en een handvol dialecten – zo’n beetje in het Neolithische tijdperk. Er was landbouw, maar pottenbakken was nog niet uitgevonden, net zomin als bewerkte stenen speerpunten, waar dat in het Middenoosten zo’n 9000 jaar geleden gebeurde. Natuurlijk zijn er meer plekken op de wereld waar tot voor kort alles van hout, steen of bot was, maar ze zijn wel zeldzaam. In de Baliemvallei voelt die tijdcapsule versterkt aan omdat het echt zo’n verborgen Shangri-la in de bergen is. Voor de bevolking (merendeel Dani) overigens alle respect, binnen een paar generaties van pijl en boog naar e-mail is niet niks. Om je een beeld te geven: we zaten op een gegeven moment in een honai (ronde grashut), opa lag links bloot met enkel een koteka (peniskoker) op het stro te slapen, terwijl rechts het dochtertje in een jurkje met haar mobiel youtube-filmpjes aan het kijken was. Over een generatiekloof gesproken…

Zaterdag dus naar het Habema-meer, hoog in de bergen op de rand van het Lorentzpark. We werden in een brute 4×4 pickup opgehaald, de jongens van Lorentz gingen achterin en de rit ging steil omhoog tot 3400 meter, best een frisse bedoening als je van zeeniveau en 30+graden komt. Ze waren al van plan te gaan vogelspotten, en wij gingen mee. Sta je daar met je compactcamera tussen de 400mm lenzen interessant te doen. Gelukkig was er in de verre omtrek niemand te zien. Tussen een paar kleine buitjes door was het goed weer met prachtige vergezichten, waarbij we zelfs de hele hoge 4000+ meter bergen goed konden zien. We hebben zelf wat vogels op de foto gezet, maar de close-ups krijgen we met een beetje geluk nagestuurd. Vogelspotten is nog best leuk als je met kenners bent, het geeft je echt een doel om zomaar de natuur in te lopen :) .


Ok, zondag was een rustdag, dus er moest worden hardgelopen en we hebben superfanatiek op twee mountainbikes een tocht over heuvels en tegen de wind in gemaakt. Natuurlijk moesten we ons ook een beetje voorbereiden, want maandag zouden we gaan hiken voor een paar dagen. Solo wel te verstaan. Markus, de Duits-Italiaanse man van Theodora, is redelijk bekend met bergen en reizen (de bescheiden man heeft zo’n honderd landen bezocht en de meest fantastische avonturen meegemaakt) en gaf aan dat we dat best alleen konden.

Met het ochtendgloren, rugzak en heel schematisch kaartje vertrokken we maandag in de taxi naar het zuidoosten – een kloof met kleine dorpjes, waar de Baliemrivier al redelijk woest begint te worden. Taxi 1 bracht ons bij een soort brugplank, taxi 2 ging tot aan een wegverzakking, nummer 3 reed naar de rivier de Yetni die echt alles had weggespoeld, en daarna konden we kiezen voor een ojek, maar wij gingen lopen. Al snel werden we gevolgd of liepen we samen op met locals, vooral vrouwen, vaak met een zelfgehaakte net (noken) op hun hoofd en rug, vol met groenten. Na een laatste militair checkpoint waren we echt op weg. Natuurlijk liepen we meteen verkeerd, althans niet helemaal zoals gepland. Uiteindelijk werden we enkele dorpjes verderop door een groepje kinderen een bijna 45 graden-helling opgeleid richting het dorpje Wamerek, ons einddoel voor de dag. Wonder-o-wonder stond daar ineens Mister Yeki, de eigenaar van het guesthouse in Wamerek waar we heen wilden voor onze neus! Hij nam ons de rest van de dag op sleeptouw, en gelukkig maar, want met al die kleine paadjes overal was de weg vinden nog best een klus geweest. In Wamerek aangekomen werden we bijna dansend onthaald door opa in zijn koteka. Yeki woont hier in een klein paradijsje met zijn twee vrouwen en de rest van de familie. Ze hebben een extra honai gebouwd voor gasten en zelfs een mooie ‘rivierdouche’ gemaakt. Yeki spreekt een beetje Engels en staat welverdiend in de Lonely Planet voor die omgeving vermeld. Die avond werden we uitgenodigd om samen met zijn familie bij het vuur in de honai mee te eten. Vaste prik van de hele regio zijn cassave-achtige aardappelen en de bladgroente ervan, maar lekker dat het is!


Na ons programma even goed doorgesproken te hebben bood hij aan om voor een bijzonder schappelijk tarief onze gids te zijn. Nou, heel fijn en dat hebben we geweten… Omdat we een rondje dorpjes wilden maken, maar eigenlijk een dag tekort kwamen bood Yeki een alternatieve doorsteek aan. We hebben intussen al best wel wat in de bergen gelopen, maar dit was echt pittig, phoe! De Inca-trail was er bijna makkelijk bij. Elk met een flinke rugzak op, over smalle paadjes langs afgronden, regelmatig op handen en voeten naar boven, of van een boom naar ander houvast naar beneden glijdend. Sorry moeders, het is maar goed dat jullie dit achteraf horen ;) . Maar wat een avontuur, en mooi!

Dag twee werden we onthaald door de chief van de regio, met zijn gevolg van ouderen en dorpelingen. We hadden op advies van Markus voor de tocht meerdere pakjes sigaretten voor de volwassen en pelpinda’s voor de kinderen meegenomen. En vooral die sigaretten gingen harder dan gedacht. Letterlijk iedereen die we tegenkwamen hebben we de hand geschud, en regelmatig vroegen oudjes met getuite lippen om iets te roken. Ook de kinderen kwamen aanrennen, het is blijkbaar zeker niet elke week dat er hier een toerist langskomt. Soms was het ook heel aandoenlijk. Zo werden we eens door een dreumes bergop achtervolgd, al roepend dat hij gula (suiker) wilde, en met vier pelpinda’s in zijn handje kreeg Marloes een spontane omhelzing van de lieve snottebel. Maar: we stonden dus voor de chief met maar een half pakje sigaretten. Fout! Dat moest minstens een héél pakje zijn. Uiteindelijk , aangevuld met een pak koekjes was hij tevreden. Beduusd dat we waren, begon hij alles meteen uit te delen. Hij blij, dorp blij en wij blij.

Later op de avond hebben we spelletjes gespeeld met gids Yeki en zijn vrienden. We zaten in de honai van zijn vader, die helaas afgelopen oktober was overleden toen hij bij het grasmaaien met zijn machete zijn enkel en slagader had geraakt. Als alles goed gaat is het een prachtig gebied, maar zo niet, dan zit je hier wel erg ver van de ‘beschaving’. Dat ‘ongemak’ merkten we meteen al in het klein toen ze ons vertelden dat het water op was. Yeki klom zes uur op twee slokken water, wij niet. Het zijn echt geharde lui daar. De derde dag was overigens weer wat makkelijker, veelal bergafwaarts en op een goed pad. Prachtige vergezichten en nóg meer vriendelijke mensen.


Ook Sabine en Brigit zijn naar Wamena gegaan, dat was natuurlijk allemaal gepland enzo, dus met enkele uurtjes verschil stonden we woensdagmiddag met zijn allen bij Markus en Theodora in de huiskamer. Hoewel Theodora zwanger is proberen ze wat bij te verdienen door gasten te ontvangen, dus met liefde bleven we met zijn allen twee nachtjes slapen. We hebben die middag nog een beetje door het stadje gelopen, een markt bezocht, en we zijn door één of andere gevaarlijke ogende lijmsnuivende gek in de taxi gestalked (totdat hij er met een stuk hout door de chauffeur uit werd geslagen). Vaak zijn het toch de kleine dingen die opvallen: platgeslagen oliedrums als hekwerk van een roze geschilderd barbiehuisje, hoe iemand met liefde een biggetje in de armen heeft om op de markt te verkopen, of een 4×4 pick-up die met literflessen diesel en een trechter wordt bijgetankt. Of dit: dat je eerst achter het kantoor mensen op een volleybalveld met een tennisbal ziet voetballen, en dat je zondag langs een tennisbaan loopt waar ze volleyballen met een voetbal. ‘t Is gewoon net even anders. Donderdag hebben we onder leiding van Markus nog een lange wandeling langs dorpjes in de buurt gemaakt. Heerlijk relaxed, aardige mensen en een mooie natuur. We hebben nog een half uur op een ijsvogeltje gewacht, maar moesten uiteindelijk door, druk druk. Op aanraden van Markus kon een bezoekje aan de kleine boerenmarkt in het zuiden niet uitblijven, het was te lopen en lekker klein. Natuurlijk moest de sigarettenverkoper in koteka even op de foto, en toen we even later wat ‘ kokosbloempit’ wilden kopen hadden we dertig man om ons heen staan. Gezellig!

Toch was juist bij die markt alles niet altijd rozengeur. Stammen vechten onderling nog regelmatig. WWF-collega Yudas kon een tijdje terug niet naar kantoor komen omdat hij thuis was beschoten met een pijl! Ook discriminatie is overal. De Papuanen hebben een redelijk achtergestelde positie, met weinig bezit, geld, opleiding noch aanzien. Het overgrote deel van de overheid, de politie, het leger en eigenlijk alle winkels en bedrijven is in handen van Indonesiërs, vaak Javanen, ook wel de local foreigners genoemd. Toen een tijd geleden een paar militairen op een brommer een kind aanreden (beenbreuk) bij de markt, kwam een meute op de been die één militair afslachtte en de andere verwondde. De militairen, autonoom bolwerk dat het hier is, reageerden fel door terug te schieten, alles af te zetten en de honais en huizen in de omtrek af te branden. Uiteindelijk zorgden politie, wat chiefs en het uitwisselen van varkens voor herstel van de rust. Hoewel je je als blanke heel welkom en veilig voelt – zo denken ze dat je christen bent, één van de andere grote verschillen tussen Papuanen en Indonesiërs – hoor je dus wel dat er wat strubbelingen zijn.


Afgelopen vrijdag vlogen we terug naar Sentani. Voor wie niet zo van die steriele vliegvelden houdt: Wamena is een verademing. Je loopt met zijn allen een houten schuur in, er staan wat fragiele inchecktafeltjes en je krijgt een ticket zonder tijd (als de vlucht wat leeg is word je doorgeschoven naar een latere). We sprongen een halve meter terug toen de gek bij de tassenscan (die al heel lang uit stond) hard begon te kwaken. Even later zaten we achter een heras-hekwerk in de wachtruimte, toen naast ons een andere dorpsgek met helm, plastic zakjes-cape en een stalen pijp als speer luid schreeuwend een tijdje rondrende, en zo nu en dan richting de vliegtuigen liep. Als het luchtalarm afging kwam er een vliegtuig aan en moest iedereen van de landingsbaan: helder! Sabine, Brigit en wij hadden twee verschillende vluchten, maar we kwamen uiteindelijk redelijk gelijk aan. Na de collega’s op boterbroodjes en verhalen getrakteerd te hebben gaven we nog een Engelse les, met Brigit en Sabine als special guests. Ze vlogen zaterdag meteen weer door, terug naar NL. En we hoorden al hoe koud het er is…

Zo, deze week was even bijkomen en nadenken. Dit weekend eindigt onze eerste tweemaanden periode, waarbij we het land uitmoeten om onze visa te vernieuwen. We gaan dus maar even een Singapore citytripje maken. Daar koppelen we dan meteen een maand vakantie aan vast, waarschijnlijk op Java en Bali. Als het even lukt willen we op Bali ons duikbrevet gaan halen. Maar ook belangrijk voor nu is wat we met de geplande tweede periode (mei en juni) van ons vrijwilligerswerk gaan doen. Vooral voor Paul is het een beetje een puntje, die helpt Marloes nu mee met Engelse les en doet wat andere kleine klusjes, maar het afgesproken projectwerk blijft uit. Ook Kalimantan heeft nog niet van zich laten horen. Als dat zo blijft, hebben we afgesproken dat we de tweede tweemaanden-periode terugschroeven naar één en misschien twee weken. Wat we daarna gaan doen en waarheen? Dat zien we de komende weken… het wordt hoe dan ook leuk :) .

PS: Superleuk om jullie reacties op onze posts te lezen, dankjewel!

Liefs,
Paul & Marloes

3.217 Reacties

  1. Hi, het is ongelofelijk wat jullie daar allemaal meemaken! En dan die tegenstelling tussen steen- en virtuele tijd. En zo heerlijk leesbaar verwoord! Ga zo door.
    Geniet van jullie komende trektocht door Indonesië en blijf er zo prachtig over bloggen.
    Hans

  2. Wat een belevenissen. Dit was wel boffen dat jullie met WWF kollega’s mee konden.
    En wat een bergwandelingen…maar met een gids en dat was een goeie keus.
    Ik geniet van jullie blog en ga het nog een keer lezen.
    Heel veel liefs mam Emmy

  3. Selamat siang lieve kroepoekjes, weer een zeer geslaagde blog, wat leuk om te lezen! Ik geniet nog helemaal na. Zeer cool dat jullie de professionele luchtverkeersleider in Wamena incl supermancape op de foto hebben. Ik probeerde hem hier al te beschrijven, maar kreeg veel verwonderde blikken :) Geniet van al het moois daar en dank jullie wel dat we daar een stukje met jullie reis konden meegenieten. Terima kasih! Xxx

  4. hoi Loes! Als we ooit in hetzelfde bejaardentehuis eindigen hebben we elkaar zoveel te vertellen! Heel veel plezier!

  5. Ha zus en Pool!
    Ik heb jullie blog weer gelezen met maar nu met muziek van het orkest van Holland Symfonia op de achtergrond… Niet gepland hoor maar gewoon toevallig! :) Ik merk dat ik soms stop met lezen om mij jullie situatie voor te stellen en hoe het eruit zou moeten zien. Erg leuk en mooi hoe jullie beeldend schrijven! Daarnaast is het superleuk om te lezen hoe daar aan sport wordt gedaan, ik moest echt hard lachen. Zouden jullie spelbreker zijn als jullie de `officiele’ spelregels uit zouden leggen met de juiste materialen? ;) Jullie moeten echt afgetraind terugkomen volgens mij, dat vele hiken en fietsen werpt vast zijn vruchten af. Ik blijf het bijzonder vinden dat het lijkt alsof jullie niet in een vliegtuig maar in een tijdmachine zijn gestapt toen jullie op reis zijn gegaan. De verhalen komen over alsof ze uit een ander tijdperk komen, heel bijzonder. Lekker blijven posten en dikke kus voor jullie! Mis jullie!

  6. Hoi Marloes en Paul,
    Prachtig om jullie belevenissen te lezen!! mooi om mee te genieten,
    Liefs Hans en Ina

  7. Met veel plezier volg ik jullie fantastische belevenissen en (soms enge! en ja.. mijn maag draait als ik jullie over boomstammetjes naar boven klauterend tegen de rotswand geplakt zie….!) avonturen met veel prachtige foto’s!
    Veel liefs en een dikke kus

  8. Ik lees de blog soms meerdere keren voor ik echt kan geloven wat er staat. Wat een compleet andere wereld. En daarin weer allemaal andere werelden. Elke keer weer genieten om bij te lezen!
    Geniet van jullie maandje vakantie ;)

    X Elselien

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