Over ontbossing, papeda en Birds of Paradise

We zijn weer terug in Sentani, met hoewel niet te snel toch weer dat heerlijke internet. Tijd voor een nieuwe blog! Deze hebben we deels geschreven in Wamena, in de beroemde Baliemvallei in het binnenland van Papua. Het is echt een prachtig gebied, maar meer daarover in onze volgende post, die we hopelijk deze week al online krijgen. We hebben jullie even laten wachten, maar hier komt een vers overzicht van drie weekjes Sentani, bezoekjes aan de jungle en het strand.

Onze wandeling naar het monument van generaal MacArthur (zie de vorige blog) kreeg nog een staartje. We waren met wat lichte regen vertrokken, en hadden niet door dat de zon ook met bewolking ongenadig is. Rood als tomaten waren we! Een week later moesten we nog steeds oppassen dat we het inmiddels nieuwe huidje in de nek niet opnieuw zouden verliezen. Dus eigenwijs liepen we een zondag later, Paul met een strohoed op en een sjaaltje om, uren in de brandende zon op weg naar Sentani Lake. Het enorme meer heeft negentien eilandjes, en die rond Pulau Pugi zijn echt idyllisch! Bij de pier en steigers waren kinderen en volwassenen aan het luieren en zwemmen, en toen we zelf even later ook bij een steiger op een bankje zaten werden we door een groepje mannen enthousiast gevraagd mee te varen naar het volgende eiland waar ze bij een kerkdienst zouden optreden. Op zich leuk, maar toch vriendelijk bedankt, want die diensten duren zo de hele middag en we hadden inmiddels reuzehonger. Dus hebben we zodra we er eentje vonden een ojek terug genomen (ja, één, dus met zijn drieën erop, Loes lekker gesandwiched in het midden).

Die dinsdag kwam USAID op bezoek, een grote donor van WWF Indonesia. Al een paar dagen was er enige stress op kantoor: cijfers, presentaties en banners werden verzameld of geproduceerd en zelfs het gebouw kreeg een poetsbeurt. Onze rol was niet zo groot, maar we mochten wel mee met een gezamenlijke wandeling naar de waterval op Cyclops mountain hier achter het kantoor, onderdeel van het natuurreservaat. En echt typisch Indonesisch, de 300 meter van het kantoor naar de start van de wandeling, een volstrekt leeg stukje asfalt, werd netjes in colonne met de auto gemaakt!
De rest van de week hebben we weer goed gevuld met het maken en geven van Engelse les en natuurlijk met de lessen en huiswerk Bahasa Indonesia. Gevoed door een maar liefst drie kilo wegende taart die de vrouw van collega Roki (een bosbouw-senior) voor Loes had gebakken, nadat ze uit beleefdheid had laten vallen dat ze een eerdere taart zo lekker vond… Zie de foto, we hebben veel uitgedeeld die week:).

Collega’s Stef (herbebossing), Astrid (duurzaamheid) en Lydia (receptie) gingen zaterdag (de 28ste) een verkenningstocht maken voor Boomplantdag. Of we mee wilden… Natuurlijk! Dan ga je hier met zijn allen in de auto de deur uit, richting de universiteit en Jayapura – alle bekend en redelijk stads terrein – vervolgens sla je af en moet je een kilometer verder het stamhoofd eerst even toestemming vragen. En niet veel later staat er een groepje locals met bijlen een varken te slachten voor een bruiloft die avond, wil het halve dorp met je poseren en loop je zo de ongerepte jungle in. Toch is er rond de steden hier al veel oerwoud verdwenen. Naast dat dat natuurlijk zonde is, geeft het ook problemen. Zo wordt in de hoofdstad Jayapura, met zijn miljoen inwoners, nu al per wijk het kraanwater een dag in de week afgesloten omdat op de omliggende heuvels het bos is gekapt en daardoor de watertoevoer stokt.
Met de lokale chiefs hebben we met een mooie wandeling locaties bezocht waar later met enige ceremonie jonge boompjes worden geplant. Na de lunch zijn we in de heuvels rond de hoofdstad de plek van de boomplantdag van vorig jaar wezen bekijken. Op de weg er naartoe reden we bij toeval langs een stuk waar ze net een hele berghelling in de fik hadden gestoken, dikke witte rookwolken torenden overal bovenuit. Dan zijn die piepkleine jonge boompjes maar kwetsbaar. Zoals onze collega’s het zelf zeiden, het lijkt een beetje de regel hier: een kleine stap vooruit en een grote terug.
Dat weerhield ons er natuurlijk niet van om samen met onze collega’s ook even Jayapura te bezoeken waar we nog niet geweest waren, met onze voetjes in de oceaan te gaan staan op het stadsstrand, en van het uitzicht van de City Sign (een soort ‘Hollywood’ tekst op de berghelling) te genieten!

Die woensdag daarop kwamen Brigit en Sabine aan, collega-vrienden die speciaal voor ons een vakantie naar Papua hadden geboekt (ok, als duikfanaten kwamen ze ook voor de schijnbaar mooiste duiksite te wereld, en voor de natuur enzo…). Na een schamele dertig uur vlucht zijn ze eerst een paar dagen naar het eiland Biak gegaan… en verbrand, en niet zo’n beetje ook! Rood all over, rugzak niet kunnen tillen-achtig verbrand, we hadden echt medelijden;). Maar stoer dat ze waren zijn we meteen dezelfde dag naar de waterval gelopen en hebben we, nu met de taxi, de eilandjes in Sentani Lake bezocht.
De volgende was het om vier uur opstaan om de beroemde Bird of Paradise te gaan opzoeken. Al dagen vooraf waren we bezig geweest om een gids te regelen, meerdere collega’s hadden zich ermee bemoeid om ene Yamil te bereiken, een hun bekende en hele beroemde gids. Pas die avond ervoor lukte dat en collega Benno (toffe gast dat hij is) bleef de hele nacht bij het kantoor op een stoel zitten zodat hij ‘s ochtends op tijd zou zijn om ons te kunnen rijden. Een paar uur later liepen we in onze gympen door het moerasbos, en hebben we zowaar meerdere paradijsvogels gehoord en gezien! Best bijzonder omdat ze zo zeldzaam zijn.
Vrijdag vlogen Sabine en Brigit door naar Raja Ampat en werden wij getrakteerd op… papeda! Tijdens de vorige Engelse les hadden we voorgesteld om gezamenlijk een keer een praat-en-lunch-les te doen, en dat werd dus eten met het hele kantoor. Collega’s hadden allerlei bijzondere gerechten gemaakt, inclusief het traditionele volksvoedsel op Papua dat wordt gemaakt van de Sago-palm. Papeda dus, oftewel behangplaksel. Maar de soep was lekker!;)

Al die tijd zo dichtbij de kust wonen en nog niet gezwommen, dat kon dus niet. Vol goede moed stonden we die zondagochtend op de markt te wachten voor een taxi naar Depapre, een dorpje aan zee ongeveer dertig kilometer naar het westen. Nou is wachten hier normaal, maar nu was de markt wel heel verlaten. Er kwam een pick-up vol jongeren aanrijden voor een pauze, die uiteraard weer met ons op de foto wilden en ons vervolgens wat drinken aanboden. Ze moeten toch enige wanhoop op onze gezichten hebben afgelezen, want even later mochten we opstappen en werden we gratis meegenomen! Een dagje naar het strand is zoveel leuker met een hele club vrolijke mensen achterin een bakkie, in de volle zon maar met een lekker windje, stuiterend over potholes langs de palmbomen. We hebben die middag lekker in het water gelegen en gesnorkeld boven het koraal waar tientallen vissen zwommen.

De week daarna was plotseling druk, ook met de voorbereidingen voor onze trip naar Wamena die vrijdag. Maar daarover meer in de volgende blog! We beloven plechtig dat die minder lang op zich laat wachten.

We hopen dat je van ons verhaal genoten hebt, en laat vooral even je reactie achter. Dankjewel ook voor alle leuke berichten en reacties bij de vorige blog! Worden we heel blij van:-).

3.177 Reacties

  1. Hai Marloes en Paul,
    indrukwekkend wat jullie daar allemaal meemaken en zien. En wat een vriendelijke mensen ook overal. Ik geniet ook van jullie schitterende foto’s. En ben uiteraard zeeeeeeeer benieuwd naar jullie blog over de Baliem Vallei. Dikke knuffel!

  2. Heerlijke berichten weer, dank jullie wel! En wat een plaatjes: ik zie zo een hoop fotomateriaal voor de WNF-website voorbij komen… Maar daarover later, veeeeeel later meer :-) Geniet en hou ons op de hoogte!
    Lfs, Maja

  3. Wat een mooie verhalen, inspirerend om te lezen vanuit het koude kikkerlandje!
    Heel veel plezier verder!
    Liefs, Mathilde

  4. Verbrand? We waren heel mooi egaal bruin bedoel je ;) Wat was het super om met jullie daar te zijn! Erg leuk om te zien hoe jullie daar zitten en WWF collega’s daar te ontmoeten, doe iedereen de groetjes. Kijk uit naar de update over Wanena en de koteka’s :-)

  5. Hee lieve Loes en Paul,

    Wat verblijven jullie in een prachtige omgeving, zeg. Wat een schitterende natuur! Mooi om te lezen over al die vriendelijke behulpzame mensen daar. Genieten!

    Liefs, Urs

  6. Haha, toffe blog! En natuurlijk kwamen we speciaal voor jullie! Die mantaroggen, walvishaaien, zeeschildpadden, paradijsvogels, koraalriffen en koteka’s waren allemaal bijzaak ;) Dank voor jullie gastvrijheid en gezelligheid en vergeet niet om te blijven genieten van iedere seconde daar, want het paradijs is overal om jullie heen. Dikke klapzoen!

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