Geland in Sentani: onze eerste weken bij WWF-Papua

Allereerst goed nieuws: de openhartoperatie van Hans, Loes dr vader, vorige week woensdag is geslaagd en hij herstelt voorspoedig! Maar liefst 4 bypasses waren er nodig, en dat voor een bijna toevallige check-up een paar dagen daarvoor. Afgelopen week is hij ontslagen van het ziekenhuis, en de eerste haring alweer verorberd. Echt een enorme opluchting! Iedereen die op onze blog heeft gereageerd, heeft gemaild, geappt of op wat voor manier dan ook heeft meegeleefd: dankjewel!!

Intussen zijn we al bijna drie weken op Papua, in het dorpje Sentani, een uur rijden van de hoofdstad Jayapura. Vanaf het moment dat we hier bij WWF aankwamen voelden we ons eigenlijk al thuis, zo vriendelijk en behulpzaam is iedereen, en zo mooi is de omgeving. We werken dus vrijwillig voor WWF-Papua, vooral door Engelse les te geven en verhalen uit het veld te halen, en Paul gaat nog aan de slag met een ecotoerismeproject. Op het terrein van het kantoor is ook een guesthouse gebouwd, en daar logeren we de komende maanden. We hebben nog nooit zo dicht bij ons werk gewoond – genoeg tijd dus om een mooie lange blog te schrijven :-) .

Twee weken geleden dus, zaterdag de 31ste vlogen we vanaf Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam naar Jakarta. Dat was even wennen… d’r staat veel hoogbouw en de ca 10 miljoen inwoners doen alles met de auto. Bovendien kwam die zaterdag net de storm van het jaar over, en het water stond enkelhoog in de straten. We konden gelukkig meteen inchecken in een hotel waar meerdere WWF’ers zaten, en werden maandag gemakkelijk aan het handje meegenomen naar het WWF-Indonesia hoofdkantoor. Dat is trouwens een flinke organisatie: WWF-Indonesia is een geheel Indonesische NGO en telt 450 medewerkers, verspreid over het 5200 km grote land – een afstand van Amsterdam tot Afghanistan!

Meteen die maandagnacht zijn we naar Papua gevlogen, een tergende 8 uur durende vlucht met twee landingen. Bam! Licht en muzakje aan en voeten omhoog voor de schoonmakers… en wakker ben je.
Als je komt aanvliegen over Papua zie je al wat een uitgestrekt eiland dit is, enkel een groene jungle-zee. Richting de hoofdstad Jayapura verschijnen dorpjes en kronkelwegen, en je vliegt aan over een prachtig meer aan de voet van Cyclop-mountain. We werden heel hartelijk ontvangen, en toen we die avond met de kersverse collega’s in een drijvend restaurant aan de vers gegrillde vis zaten waren we echt geland!

De eerste week was vooral een beetje wennen, inlezen, collega’s en de Papua style leren kennen. Zaken gaan hier net even anders, het leven is meer ín het moment, relaxed, niet perse gemakkelijker en soms bijna hilarisch moeilijk. Medewerkers van een veldkantoor moeten vliegen en blijven slapen voor een overleg omdat de afstanden zo groot zijn, naar een project in de buurt rijden kost je een dag en dan is het maar even afwachten wie er is, zoals maandag een collega naar de stad moest voor een afspraak die niet kwam opdagen. En wij? We werken keihard om een beetje gedaan te krijgen, voortdurend moeten we switchen van router als internet er weer uit ligt, neem een uurtje voor een printje, die dingen. Buiten kantooruren is het heerlijk relaxed, we zitten midden in het groen net boven het uit de kluiten gewassen dorpje Sentani. D’r zijn winkels en restaurantjes, er is een waterval op een half uurtje lopen en we hebben al een mooie hardlooproute gevonden. Hardlopen kan je hier trouwens het beste om zes uur ‘s ochtends doen, ‘s middags kan het hier zo warm en vochtig worden dat je als je je pink optilt al denkt: shit, weer teveel gedaan.

Twee tripjes moeten we gewoon even uitlichten: Cacao en volkskunst .

Vorige week dinsdag hebben we met een paar collega’s enkele cacaoplantages in naburige dorpjes bezocht. Enige jaren terug bedacht de centrale overheid dat men hier best cacao kon verbouwen. Enkele duizenden zaden werden gedumpt, maar niemand wist hoe of wat, en nu enkele jaren later blijkt deze specifieke soort ook nog erg gevoelig voor schimmel. WWF-Papua vreesde voor de omliggende jungle, en stimuleert nu een meer robuste ‘inheemse’ soort. Wij mee op pad voor een inventarisatie. Het dichtsbijzijnde dorpje was al drie uur rijden, niet altijd over asfalt of een brug. Toen we aankwamen liep langzaam het dorp uit, en alle boeren kwamen bijeen in een soort ‘longhouse’. Om het gesprek een beetje te stimuleren werden sigaretten uitgedeeld en die rode betel-noten gekauwd, zelfs al hadden sommigen nog maar twee tanden in de mond. We hebben samen gegeten en cacaoplanten bekeken, met voor ons hier en daar wat extra uitleg. Fantastisch om daar aan te mogen schuiven en even middenin te zitten!

Vorige week zondag hebben we een tochtje gemaakt naar het Sentani-meer. Het meer heeft negentien eilandjes met vissersdorpjes op palen voor die mooie toeristengids-foto’s. Geheel op de bonnefooi zijn we met een taxi, toen lopend, en uiteindelijk in een kano met buitenboordmotor op het eilandje Asei terechtgekomen (het laatste stukje even door het water wadend). De driehonderdmeter omtrek van het eiland was geheel paalwoningen, scharrelende varkens en kinderen. We hadden gelezen dat er een centrum voor traditionele boomschors-tekeningen was. Dat waren dus drie dames die trots hun waren toonden en graag een handen-en-voeten-praatje maakten over de vele kinderen. En even later werd haar man opgetrommeld en mochten we in zijn bootje weer de overtocht terug maken.

We wilden met de taxi verder om te lunchen bij een goed-van-horen-zeggen restaurant, maar de taxi kende het niet, dus natuurlijk reden we daar voorbij. Een medepassagier begreep het woord lunch, en gidste ons naar een heerlijk lokaal restaurantje. Op de terugweg moesten we overstappen. Ernaast waren een paar gebouwen met een enorme herrie van een trouwerij, en een bordje ‘Museum Papua’. Leuk, dachten we. Maar helaas.. gesloten. Totdat een huisbaas annex zwervertypje kwam vragen of we voor het museum kwamen, hij had ergens wel een sleutel, of we even wilden wachten. Wij wat ouwehoeren met de verveelde kinderen van de bruiloft, en een tien minuten later stonden we met kinderen en aangehaakte honden in een leeg museum, terwijl de hoofdschakelaar voor alle verlichting werd omgezet. De baas kwam aanlopen en gaf ons een rondleiding langs de meest prachtige houtsnijwerken en volkskunst van de verschillende Papuaanse stammen, de speren werden voor de foto even mooi rechtop gezet. Hoe goed kan een ongeplande dag verlopen?!

We hebben inmiddels ook onze eerste Engelse lessen aan de collega’s hier gegeven. Het is een enthousiaste club die graag Engels spreekt, maar soms wat onzeker is over de grammatica en uitspraak. Na een bescheiden start – ze hebben hier bepaald geen niet-geschoten-altijd-mis-mentaliteit – begint iedereen al wat meer te praten, en horen we ook buiten de lessen om wat Engels. Tegelijkertijd proberen wij ook Bahasa Indonesia te leren, we hebben tweewekelijks een privé-les op een Universiteit in een voorstadje van Jayapura. We kunnen vreemden al vertellen hoe we heten, maar woorden voor gras en haar (op je hoofd) worden nog verwisseld;). Leuk is dat de taal zich zo langzamerhand voor je ontvouwt. Het woord ‘matahari’ bijvoorbeeld betekent zon, maar is eigenlijk letterlijk ‘het oog van de dag’. Mooi toch?

We snappen nu ook waarom Engels voor de meeste Indonesiërs zo moeilijk is. Want al meteen in onze eerste les waren we door de belangrijkste grammatica heen! Het komt erop neer dat je de tegenwoordige tijd, de verleden tijd en de toekomende tijd in het Indonesisch met drie woorden kunt zeggen. En that’s it! Niks geen vervoegingen van werkwoorden. Meervoud is ook een leuke (als ze het al gebruiken), zeg het gewoon twee keer: stoel stoel. Lidwoorden doen ze hier ook niet aan, dat scheelt echt een hoop. Maar vanwege de ingewikkelde voor- en achtervoegsels en de woorden die zo enorm verschillen van het Nederlands (en vaak erg op elkaar lijken) blijft het een moeilijke taal. Alhoewel… er zijn een paar woorden die precies hetzelfde zijn, zoals oom, tante, rekening, koelkast (kulkas) en wortel!

Dat was een welverdiende, extraplus lange blog. Laat vooral onder even je reactie na, vinden we erg leuk!

3.065 Reacties

  1. Wauw wat zijn jullie op een toffe pure plek geland! Heel leuk om nu ook beelden bij jullie appjes en verhalen te hebben. En jullie zijn nu dus ook zulk mooie rood tandvlees aan het kweken (met dat gekauw) om een band met de plaatselijke boeren te stimuleren :p? Zal wel een mooi aandenken zijn aan jullie mooie avonturen daar ;) veel plezier en veel liefs liefs

  2. Heerlijk verhaal Marloes. Beetje erg onwerkelijk vanuit een ziekenhuisbed. Tegelijk met Hans geopereerd lig ik nog steeds te wachten op betere tijden. Blijf gezond, gebruiken jullie preventie?
    Jan

  3. Wat super zeg, dat we jullie avonturen van zo dichtbij mee kunnen maken – wat schrijf je toch heerlijk, Marloes! Hier komen onvergetelijke verhalen uit – en nog wat kennis over Bahasa ook ;-) Ik kijk naar uit naar jullie volgende blogs!

  4. Heerlijk verhaal en ook leuk dat een taal eenvoudig kan blijven.
    Keep up the good work!

    Groet uit NL!

  5. Zo zag El een keer daar ergens directiekeet staan, maar moedig dat jullie aan Bahasa begonnen zijn. Die verhalen zijn jaloersmakend.

    Veel plezier

  6. Moet wel even Wenen zijn voor Marloes om geen 8 verledentijden, 4 tegenwoordige tijden en 4 toekomende tijden te hebben. Maar na de reis kan ze dat natuurlijk allemaal weer ophalen.

  7. Het is de eerste keer dat ik jullie blog lees maar het is heel boeiend en leuk geschreven, het is net of ik er zelf bij ben.
    Het zijn ook zulke mooie foto’s, ga zo door en ik blijf zeker jullie blogs lezen…

  8. Hi Paul & Marloes,

    bij semi toeval kom ik jullie blog tegen & kom er achter dat ik Hans ken van Raja Ampat @ 2014!
    Nu snap ik waarom hij niet reageerde op mijn mailtje met de vraag over evt hulp van/ voor het WWF, hopelijk is hij helemaal hersteld!
    Tsja, dus maybe kunnen jullie mij helpen, ik wil Hans niet te veel belasten met werk gerelateerde dingen.
    Ik ben nu namelijk in… Sentani & dacht oa aan basis Engelse les geven (op scholen) & de kids proberen e.e.a. duidelijk te maken over natuurvervuiling e.d.. Jullie hebben vast al het afval overal wel zien rond slingeren, ik word er erg verdrietig van!
    Moeders die hun kids bijna aanmoedigend aankijken nadat ze hun lege plastic flesje drinken en verpakking vd koekjes hupsakee zonder blikken of blozen het autoraampje uitgooien…!
    Sad but true.
    Wie weet hebben jullie/ het WWF nog materiaal liggen/ projecten waar k bij kan helpen oid?
    Ik hoop dat jullie (snel & positief) reageren, ik kijk er naar uit in ieder geval!

    Groetjes uit het zonnige Sentani,
    afz. Marcia :o )

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