Ho Chi Minh City en de machtige Mekongdelta

Maandagavond, half 8. Met onze spiksplinternieuwe laptop zitten we op het vliegveld in Jakarta. Over anderhalf uur vertrekt onze vlucht naar Papua! Toen we zaterdagochtend uit Ho Chi Minh City vertrokken vonden we het jammer om weg te gaan uit Vietnam. We hadden de Mekongdelta en HCMC gezien, en waren nog lang niet uitgekeken. Maar nu we de enthousiaste mensen van WWF hebben ontmoet, voelt het echt alsof we aan een nieuw avontuur beginnen!

Eerst nog even Vietnam. We kwamen daar ruim een week geleden aan met de boot vanuit Cambodja. In Chao Doc, net over de grens, besloten we twee nachten te blijven. Er scheen een mooie berg en een natuurpark in de buurt te zijn, dus dat leek ons wel wat. Via ons hotel hadden we voor de volgende ochtend ook een tourtje van 2 uur geboekt, naar een fish farm en een dorpje met lokale minderheden (de Cham). Misschien best leuk om eens een keer iets in groepsverband te bekijken met een gids. Dachten wij. Nou… We werden al om half 7 opgehaald, terwijl de boot pas een uur later vertrok op de pier. Dat in combinatie met een luid schreeuwende gids die in elke zin minstens drie keer de groep ‘my family’ noemde, een paar groepsleden die alleen maar door de lens van hun camera keken en zonder eerst te vragen mensen in het dorpje fotografeerden, EN geen koffie, maakte dat het uitstapje geen daverend succes was.

Dat gingen we anders doen, dus voor de rest van de dag hebben we een moto gehuurd. En dat was echt leuk! Je kreeg het ding met een praktisch lege tank mee, dus het eerste wat we moesten doen was een tankstation zoeken. Maar ja… waar vind je die? Niet langs de route die wij reden, dus voordat we stil kwamen te staan toch maar gestopt bij een stalletje aan de kant van de weg waar een man een brommer aan het repareren was. Hij bedacht zich niet, sprong op zijn moto en kwam 10 minuten later terug met 2 liter brandstof in een plastic fles. Tank volgegooid en we konden door, op naar het natuurpark Tra Su Bird Sanctuary. Toen we daar aankwamen leken er nauwelijks andere bezoekers en gidsen te zijn, maar nadat we bij een balie een toegangskaart hadden gekocht stond er iemand klaar bij een motorboot, later afgewisseld door een stille roeiboot. We werden door een werkelijk prachtig waterlandschap gevaren, vol drijvende planten – dus je gleed echt door het groen! En wat een vogels overal! Zelfs als je geen vogelaar bent is het heel bijzonder. De ijsvogel herkenden we in elk geval, en op bijna elke tak zat wel een witte reiger of een of andere grote ‘visvogel’ (ik zei toch, we zijn geen kenners:-)).
Na het park reden we door naar Sam Mountain, een heilige berg met na elke paar treden weer een tempel. Treden inderdaad, want natuurlijk moesten wij weer lopen in de plakkende hitte in plaats van lekker met de moto omhoog. Maar het was het zeker waard, want het uitzicht was prachtig en we voelden ons heel voldaan toen we met een koel drankje op het terras de zonsondergang bekeken.

De avond ervoor hadden we via een jongen die langs kwam fietsen (op de een of andere manier lijken mensen je heeeel snel te kennen) bustickets geboekt bij een wat shady kantoortje. We wilden doorreizen naar Vinh Long, een stadje midden in de Mekong delta. De dames van ons hotel, die inderdaad ook bustickets verkochten maar dan ietsje duurder, begonnen de volgende ochtend toen onze pick-up op zich liet wachten al helemaal af te geven op het bedrijfje – leugenaars met slechte service, dat soort dingen. Wel gingen ze even later met ons mee naar het kantoortje om verhaal te halen, en niet lang daarna zagen we onszelf met backpack en al achterop de moto door het ochtendverkeer in de stad rijden – geen idee waarheen, maar daarom juist wel spannend. En wat bleek? We werden netjes afgezet bij het busstation, waar we in konden stappen in de lijnbus naar Vinh Long. Perfect! Onderweg bleken we nog een keer met een veerpont de rivier over te steken, werd de karaokemuziek steeds harder gezet en moesten we meerdere malen duidelijk maken dat we er bij Vinh Long uitwilden. Wat vervolgens ook gebeurde, hetzij op een verlaten parkeerplaatsje langs de drukke weg, waar 2 mannen stonden die ons (na wat afdingen) wel naar de ferry wilden brengen.

Want we wilden meteen de rivier over. Het stadje Vinh Long is omgeven door paradijslijk groene eilandjes, en de handvol homestays (soort b&b van families) zijn beroemd. Dus niet veel later lagen we tussen de fruitbomen in de hangmat! Restte niet veel meer te doen dan wat luieren en rondfietsen over smalle paadjes door het groen. Echt leuk om zo wat van het leven daar mee te krijgen.
Na dat welverdiende rustdagje :) hebben we een minibus naar Ho Chi Minh City gepakt. Het is een half dagje rijden, maar alleen met een lefgozer als onze chauffeur. Rechts over de vluchtstrook inhalen, een auto inhalen die zelf ook al aan het inhalen is, zodat een tegenligger maar even de berm in duikt: lekker aanpoten! HCMC is een erg drukke maar wel leuke stad (nog nooit zooo veel moto’s bij elkaar gezien, het schijnt dat er alleen al daar zes miljoen rondrijden!), waar we net als in Cambodja zowel mooie als wat sombere plekken hebben bezocht. Dat laatste betrof het War Remnants Museum, over de Vietnamoorlog. Ondanks de dikke laag communistenpropaganda was het toch wel heel aangrijpend, vooral de sectie over Agent Orange en dioxine.

Iets luchtiger waren de Cu Chi-tunnels, schuilplaatsen van de Viet Cong in de oorlog. Die bezochten we met een dagtoer, dit keer wel met een gids die iets te melden had. Hij was namelijk zelf oorlogsveteraan… van de Amerikanen! Best bijzonder als Vietnamees. Had hij na de oorlog ook 6 jaar voor in een communistisch strafkamp gezeten. Maar het maakte zijn verhalen wel bijzonder, en vooral persoonlijk. De tunnels zelf waren vooral erg grappig, Paul moest er op handen en voeten doorheen.
Na nog een bijzondere tempel van het Cao Dai-geloof (een kleurrijke mengeling van bijna elke grote werelreligie), het paleis van de voormalige regering van Zuid-Vietnam (tot 1975), en last but not least, een erg mooie theatershow met dansers op bamboepalen en acrobaten met rijstmanden was het tijd om Vietnam gedag te zeggen. Maar zeker niet vaarwel!

Update: we zijn na twee dagen Jakarta sinds gisteren op Papua, waar we in een heel netjes guesthouse in de weelderig groene tuin van het kantoor van WWF-Papua logeren. We werden heel hartelijk ontvangen en voelden ons meteen welkom. De eerste meetings zijn al geweest, en er is echt genoeg te doen hier voor ons.

Dan ter afsluiting iets serieuzer nieuws: Hans, de vader van Loes, kreeg omdat zijn cholesterol te hoog was afgelopen dinsdag een hartcatheterisatie, en daaruit bleek dat hij dermate veel vernauwingen heeft dat hij een openhartoperatie moet ondergaan. Dat kan gelukkig vrij snel, waarschijnlijk volgende week al. Ook voelt hij zich prima (hij stond maandag nog in de sportschool) dus het is eigenlijk een enorm geluk dat ze dit vroegtijdig ontdekken. Vanaf hier is het wel spannend omdat we zo ver weg zitten (nu zelfs 8 uur tijdsverschil), maar iedereen inclusief hijzelf heeft er alle vertrouwen in dat het goedkomt, dus wij ook!

2.529 Reacties

  1. Wat een geweldige avonturen beleven jullie zeg, ik heb even lekker bij zitten lezen! Heel erg veel plezier en succes de komende tijd bij onze collega’s daar op Papua en ik kijk uit naar de volgende verhalen.

    groetjes,
    Femke

  2. Nu ben ik eindelijk bij gelezen. Wat een avonturen! En dan is dit pas het begin! Ik ben benieuwd hoe de projecten gaan bevallen daar.
    Geniet in elk geval maar volgens mij doen jullie dat al volop!

    Liefs,

    Jorn & Elselien

  3. Wat een mooie verhalen weer! Vietnam lijkt mij ook echt een ontzettend boeiend land. Het ziet er in ieder geval niet naar uit dat jullie je vervelen.

    Ik ben benieuwd naar de volgende blog.

    Liefs Rob (en Chantal natuurlijk)

  4. Goed verhaal weer jongens, leuk om te lezen! Graag nog wat meer foto’s van lokaal voedsel erbij! :D
    Ben benieuwd naar de eerste serie foto’s van Papua..

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