Stilte op de Killing fields en herrie in Chambok

We zijn zoveel aan het rondreizen en meemaken dat we nauwelijks toekomen aan schrijven. Heerlijk eigenlijk, want elke dag is weer compleet anders. Sta je het ene moment aan de voet van een enorme waterval of naast een Cambodjaanse bruiloft, het volgende vaar je met een boot tussen allemaal prachtige vogels door – en weer het volgende zit je met backpack en al achterop een moto (kruising tussen een schakelbrommer en een motor – hét vervoermiddel hier). Zoiets:-).

We zijn inmiddels in Vietnam, in de Mekongdelta. Vrijdag zijn we per boot de grens overgestoken. We vonden het best jammer om weg te gaan uit Cambodja, dat land heeft echt wel indruk gemaakt. Zeker als je vanuit Thailand komt zie je duidelijk dat het een stuk armer is, met veel meer krakkemikkige hutjes, bedelaars en kinderen die op straat wat willen verkopen. Ook niet zo gek, want het is pas sinds 1998 dat die verschrikkelijke Pol Pot dood is en de Khmer Rouge die het land zo geteisterd heeft daadwerkelijk is ontmanteld. Check wikipedia maar voor de geschiedenis, vooral de jaren 1975-1979 waren verschrikkelijk. Dat hebben we gezien in het Tuol Slengmuseum, een voormalige basisschool die als martelgevangenis werd gebruikt. We kregen het er koud van in de hitte. En dan hou je het het hele bezoek droog, met alle verhalen, martelwerktuigen en foto’s, staat er aan het eind ineens een van de weinige overlevenden gezond en wel breed vanachter een tafel naar je te glimlachen! Toen hadden we het even niet meer…

Diezelfde dag hebben we ook de Killing Fields bezocht, een van de vele massagraven uit die vreselijke tijd. Met een heel goede Engelse audioguide loop je dan in stilte het terrein over. De natuur is er prachtig, je hoort vogels in het groen, de vijver ligt vol met lelies en je ziet heel veel vlinders vliegen. Tegelijkertijd hoor je schrijnende persoonlijke verhalen en moet je bij sommige stukken oppassen om niet op botten of kledingresten te staan… De gruwelijke details zullen we achterwege laten, maar het was heftig. En tegelijkertijd sprak er aan het einde zoveel hoop uit op een betere toekomst en wereld… Wat we vanuit hier meekregen over het nieuws in de rest van de wereld gaf nou niet meteen een positief gevoel, maar toch – het is heel belangrijk dat dit soort plekken er op deze manier zijn en het verhaal verteld wordt.

Na die sombere dag in Phnom Penh zijn we twee nachten de stad uitgegaan, naar een afgelegen dorpje Chambok dat een ecotoerismeproject heeft opgezet, aan de rand van een natuurgebied. Doordat de inwoners gasten ontvangen en daarmee inkomsten genereren, zijn ze niet langer afhankelijk van houtkap en stroperij. Een deel van het gebied beheren ze zelf, zodat als ze bomen kappen ze daar direct meer voor terugplanten. Alle WNF’ers zal deze opzet zeker bekend voorkomen (al heb ik geen FSC-logo’s kunnen ontdekken;-)). De mensen waren ontzettend vriendelijk en lief, en ook al sprak de familie bij wie we logeerden geen woord Engels, we werden heel hartelijk ontvangen en kregen de gehele bovenverdieping van hun houten huis op palen toegewezen. De hurkwc met emmer achter het huis was douche en toilet in één, en ‘s avonds na zessen was er stroom. Ook hoorde je veel vogels fluiten.

Ondanks die mooie omgeving hebben we niet bijzonder goed geslapen, vooral de 2e nacht niet. Er was namelijk een bruiloft aan de gang niet ver van ons huis, en het is hier met muziek vaak zo dat het er óf niet is (maakt het gemiddelde restaurant met TL-licht en gapende bediening vaak nog gezelliger;-)), óf dat het zo hard staat dat het meteen alle Nederlandse geluidsnormen overschrijdt. Dat laatste was dus het geval, maar goed, met oordoppen kom je een heel eind. Inslapen ging nog wel en de muziek stopte ergens na tweeën ook. Maar ging vervolgens toch weer vol aan.. om f*cking half 6 ‘s ochtends! Het beetje ochtendmens dat in ons zit was daar toch echt niet tegen opgewassen. Zeker als het enige koffie-achtige dat voorhanden is in een zakje zit waar – heel handig! – vantevoren óók al suiker en melk bij is gegooid -brrr. Geen koffie voor ons dus, met enorme koppijn als gevolg, die gelukkig een paar dagen later na een paar slokken van een echt bakkie als sneeuw voor de zon verdween. A coffee a day keeps the headache away!

Ondanks de dus wat zware hoofden hebben we wel heerlijk gewandeld in het natuurgebied, waar meerdere watervallen waren. Je kon de ontbossing goed zien, maar tegelijkertijd was er veel nieuwe aanplant, en gelukkig stonden er her en der nog een paar oude woudreuzen overeind. Ook kregen we een verrassend mooie dansshow van plaatselijke achtjarigen, zijn we door het dorpje gefietst met onze alleraardigste vaak giechelende vrouwelijke gids, hebben we sticky rice in bamboe gemaakt en opgegeten (hmmm), gingen we toch ook wel even bij de bruiloft langs en lukte het zelfs mij na een uurtje prutsen met bamboe om een eigen armband te maken (Paul is veel beter in dat soort creatieve dingen, dus die was zo klaar). Erg leuk al met al en een goede afsluiter van onze tijd in Cambodja!

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2.812 Reacties

  1. Nou, eindelijk effe bijgelezen! Mooie verhalen en tegelijkertijd ook wel serieus, jullie genieten toch wel genoeg ondanks all killing fields/luidruchtige bruiloften/gare busritten he?? Neem aan van wel :)
    Heel veel plezier en hoe abonneer ik me op jullie nieuwsbrief??
    Len

  2. Hi Len, dank voor je reactie! We genieten zeker weten veel hoor, bijna alleen maar!:-D We vinden het alleen belangrijk om ook wat over de geschiedenis te weten om zo het land en de cultuur iets beter te snappen. En ja, dat is niet altijd even vrolijk, maar wel goed om te doen. Vinden wij;-).
    Over abonneren: we moeten volgens mij handmatig iets op onze blog zetten om dat te activeren, gaan we even uitzoeken. Ik laat het je weten!

  3. Lieve Loes en Paul,

    Erg leuk om jullie belevenissen mee te mogen beleven! Ik kijk uit naar jullie volgende update. Liefs, Urs

  4. Hee lieve Loes en Paul,

    Wat een heftige verhalen. Ik kan me voorstellen dat je je dan even in een hele andere tijd begeeft.. Dat er echt nog overblijfselen liggen van mensen, wat verschrikkelijk naar. Gelukkig hebben jullie ook een hele andere blije kant van Cambodja gezien, zoals de natuur en de vriendelijke mensen! En hoe zijn de tempels en de Boeddha’s verder ;) ? En hoe is ‘t eten?

    Liefs,
    An

  5. Aangezien jullie blog de rest van mijn prachtige woorden niet wou slikken komt nu maar het vervolg! De beelden en woorden spreken voor zich, wat een kille en beangstigende trip is dat dan. Daarnaast ook mooi en goed om te lezen dat jullie zoveel andere dingen doen en zien. Jullie kunnen zo langzamerhand je eigen reeks beginnen van de Lonely Planet! Hoe is het eten? Enjoy en goed van die post op FB, dan weet iedereen dat er weer een blig staat. Dikke kus!!

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